Family vacation in France: Day 8 in Rouen

It’s on the strength of observation and reflection that one finds a way. So we must dig and delve unceasingly.
 – Claude Monet, French Impressionist painter

While the rest of the family was excited for our next leg of the trip, I was very sad to leave Paris. For one, it was nice staying in one place for a while. I loved the energy of the city. I am definitely an urban dweller compared to the rest of the family. I also wanted to keep exploring other neighborhoods; there’s so much more to see and do. But it just means I must return to Paris. We got our taste of what it’s like to drive through Paris and to get to Charles de Gaulle Airport, a city unto itself. Gridlock. We rented a car at the airport and thus began the driving journey part of our trip.

The kids’ room with a view from the Mercure Hotel in Rouen: the medieval town.

Our room with a view at the Mercure Hotel, Rouen.

First stop was Rouen, about 84 miles northwest of Paris and 1.5 hours on the road. We figured out the toll system – which signs to follow to get into the right lanes for pay by credit card! It was our first stay at a hotel, the Mercure Hotel in Rouen. We had an adventure driving on cobbled streets through barricades to get to the hotel’s underground parking lot, and another adventure parking the car in the very tiny stall. No doubt we were an amusement to the German tourists who parked their two cars with ease. David gets a gold star for driving, driving stick shift, and coming up with alternatives when our British-speaking GPS system led us astray (she was more accurate than our GPS system in Italy, but she was not without error).

The medieval town of Rouen.

See the half-timbered homes in Rouen.

This Gothic structure houses city administration offices.

The bulge of the half-timbered buildings is characteristic of the medieval homes dating back to the early 1500s in Rouen.

Rouen is a 2,000-year-old city that boasts medieval half-timbered houses and Gothic architecture. In its heyday, Rouen was the country’s second-largest city next to Paris with 40,000 residents. The Normans made Rouen its capital in the ninth century. It was home to William the Conqueror before he moved to England. Joan of Arc, whom I vividly remember learning about when I was a child, was burned at the stake here in 1431. She was canonized in 1920 and later became the patron saint of France. Sadly, in April 1944, Allied bombers destroyed 50 percent of Rouen as they sought to break down the Germans’ control of Normandy leading up to the D-Day landings. Once we checked in (see our amazing room with a view), we immediately hit the cobbled streets, admiring the Gothic structures that house city administration. We admired the medieval structures that are still standing. You’ll notice that they bulge out, a characteristic that authenticates the age of the building.

An open-air market near the town square, Rouen.

The Big Clock in Rouen.

An antique/vintage shop in Rouen. I found a couple of chairs I would have loved to have brought home.

Always scenic – a French flower shop, Rouen.

We visited the Joan of Arc Church, Eglise Jeanne d’Arc, a modern church that was completed in 1979. The town’s Normandy Nordic roots is captured in the church’s Scandinavian architecture. The church boasts 16th-century windows, which were salvaged from a church that was bombed during WWII. Nearby the town square is a restaurant called Restaurant La Couronne, supposedly the oldest restaurant in France, but also made famous by American chef and author Julia Child. In 1949, Child ate her first French meal here and thus changed her culinary world and the American culinary scene. We did not eat dinner here, though it would have been cool to do so. Next time.

Stained-glass windows in the Joan of Arc Church, Rouen.

Statue of Joan of Arc, Joan of Arc Church, Rouen.

The Scandinavian architecture of the Joan of Arc Church, Rouen. See how the windows look like eyes with a helmet on top!

Restaurant La Couronne, made famous by Julia Child, Rouen.

The main reason we came to Rouen was to see the Notre-Dame Cathedral, which was made famous by the many different studies Claude Monet painted of the Gothic façade at different times of the day. Constructed between the 12th and 14th centuries, the cathedral endured lightning strikes and wars. In fact, the cathedral was bombed in WWII required extensive rebuilding. It’s a gorgeous cathedral. No wonder Monet painted it several times.

Notre-Dame Cathedral of Rouen. Hold your breath!

A close-up of a the frilly Gothic architecture of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Another view of the facade of the Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

Even closer, a detail of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Statues on the facade of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Stepping into Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

The ceiling of Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

A quiet, reflective moment at Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

David’s view of the light hitting the stairs, Notre-Dame Cathedral at Rouen.

In a twist on Who Wore It Best?, my version of the same stairs, Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Statues at Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

Statues in light and shadows, Notre-Dame Cathedral, Rouen.

We dined at La Petite Auberge (164 rue Martainville), which is a Rick Steves recommendation. It’s nearby the equally impressive St. Maclou Church (Eglise St. Maclou). Isabella surprised us all by eating a whole big bowl of mussels. We ate outdoors, and while it was a cool Normandy evening, the wind died down enough for us to enjoy our meal. We only stayed one night in Rouen. Traffic in Paris ate up our hours. It may be one of the times when you say, we’ll return and stay a while.

Our restaurant, La Petite Auberge, was right around the corner from St. Maclou Church, Rouen.

Somebody was being funny. Jacob had his first glass of wine our first night at Galerie Kitchen Bistro, but once he turned 18, he started drinking wine with us during meals. He is getting used to it, trying to discern the change in taste when you pair wine with food.

Salmon salad, served two ways for David, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

Goat cheese salad for me, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

Isabella’s goat cheese and crouton salad, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

David’s steak with cheese sauce and mushrooms, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

My zucchini lasagna was a little overdone, but still worthy, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

Isabella’s mussels! At La Petite Auberge, Rouen. She ate the whole thing.

Isabella’s chocolate fondant with creme anglaise, La Petite Auberge, Rouen.

It got dark after 10pm, which is when we finished our only dinner in Rouen at La Petite Auberge.