Philadelphia eats: getting our fill

A cheese steak is a long, crusty roll filled with thinly sliced sautéed steak and melted cheese. generally, the cheese of choice is Cheez Whiz, but American and provolone are common substitutions. The art of cheese steak preparation lies in the balance of flavors, textures and what is often referred to as the ‘drip’ factor. Other toppings may include fried onions, sautéed mushrooms, ketchup and hot or sweet peppers.
– About the Philly cheese steak, from the Philly Way

One of the anticipated indulgences – at least for David and me – of family vacation is tasting the local fare. If we have time before our trip, we look up what Top Chef chef owns a local restaurant or we ask for recommendations, which is why I’m writing about our culinary exploits. I’m always game for trying out restaurants by word of mouth, and I hope my reviews are useful for others. We took advantage of the complimentary continental breakfasts at our Lancaster and Baltimore hotels, and the only restaurant chain we allowed ourselves to frequent was Starbucks for breakfast.

Lancaster’s local charm
As I mentioned in my blog post about Amish country, we missed out on staying at the Amish Homestead (Ben and Emma, 231 Turtle Hill Road, Ephrata, PA 17522, 717.859.2403, Ext. 0) and experiencing a home-cooked Amish meal, which greatly pained me. Not that our two dinners in the Lancaster area were terrible, but we lost an opportunity to fully experience and embrace the Amish world and to provide Isabella with memories that would have made her summer vacation one of the best of her life. Despite being in Pennsylvania Dutch Country, one thing that our family did pass on was a slice of shoo-fly pie, as nobody was interested in its main ingredient – molasses.

Cozy atmosphere at Aussie and the Fox.

Cozy, earthy-toned atmosphere at Aussie and the Fox.

A downtown antique and vintage mall clerk happily referred us to Aussie and the Fox (38 W. King Street, Lancaster, PA 17603, 717.826.4040) for the first dinner of our vacation. The restaurant, which is celebrating its first anniversary this month, serves a blend of Australian and American cuisine, focusing on local, fresh ingredients and offering vegetarian and vegan options. Wondering about the name? In 2011, Lancaster-native Julia Garber and her Australian-born partner, Colin Morrell, partnered with Frank Fox, to make good on their dream of opening up a restaurant. “By blending the two identities of the playful, modern Aussie and the timeless sophistication of the Fox, a unique dining concept was born,” according to the restaurant. “The Aussie and the Fox embodies these two distinct personalities and their contrast influences every detail.”

Heirloom grains.

Heirloom grains.

The kids loved their appetizers as entrees, which included inkers (fresh calamari, fresno chili butter, basil, and preserved lemon) and peel & eat shrimp (a pile of chilled poached shrimp tossed in seasoning, served with chili remoulade & smoked tomato jam for some dipping). David gave his orecchietta pasta of pork sausage ragout, caramelized leek and arugula pesto, grilled zucchini, sweet peas, and shaved goat pecorino a low score because the pasta came from box. My heirloom grains and fresh veggies from local farmers’ fields was mixed with Thai basil, sprouts, and honey-ginger peanut sauce, giving it a nutty texture and lots of savory flavor. The décor of Aussie and the Fox was a mix of earthy and charming Alice in Wonderland, which is the total opposite of the old-world, Colonial brick, Norman Rockwell kind of vibe downtown Lancaster exudes.

The second night we drove around nearby Strasburg, looking for a small-town, old-fashioned dining experience. We got that at the Strasburg Creamery and Deli, which also includes its Country Store and Candy Kitchen (1 West Main Street, Strasburg, PA 17579, 717.687.0766). The shop sells candy and other gifts – and displays busy bees working in their glass-enclosed honeycomb – while the creamery and deli serve up homemade ice cream and waffle cones, deli sandwiches, and fountain drinks. The place was hopping; long lines of locals strolled in to satisfy their sweet tooth on a warm August evening.

Downtown Strasburg and the local deli and creamery.

Downtown Strasburg and the local deli and creamery.

Baltimore: get the blue crab
We didn’t allot ourselves as much time as we’d hoped while in Baltimore. David had spent some time in the area for work several years ago and was looking forward to blue crab. Instead of dining at nearby Inner Harbor, which reminded me of Pier 39 in San Francisco in terms of tourist attraction, we took our crab at Oriole Park in Camden Yards – the Chesapeake crab roll and crab waffle fries for me and the beer-battered soft-shelled crab sandwich for David. We proved that you cannot have too much crab, even if it is expensive.

Crab, crab, and more crab.

Crab, crab, and more crab.

Philadelphia: cheese steak, Asian influence, farm-to-table, and Cuban
Philadelphia has a growing reputation for culinary excellence and many of its chefs have rung up James Beard Awards nominations. Iron Chef Morimoto’s Morimoto Restaurant (723 Chestnut St, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.413.9070) and Iron Chef Jose Garces’s Rosa Blanca (707 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.925.5555) are certainly two of the city’s more famous restaurants. But alas, they were out of our price range.

We checked out the posted menu for Farmicia Food and Tonics (15 S. 3rd Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.627.6274), which is in Old City District, so within walking distance of many of our destination points. Farmicia’s concept is to “capture the pleasures of simply crafted food and excellent beverages served in a relaxed yet lively environment. The emphasis is on great tasting food and beverages crafted from local, organic, and artisanal producers.” Isabella was content with a BLT with French fries, while Jacob ordered the rosemary-roasted lamb tenderloin with green beans (he gave a thumbs up), roasted root vegetables, and yogurt-lemon sauce. David struck out with a dry duck breast with crisped skin, wild rice pilaf, sugar snap peas, and tart cherry glaze. I lucked out with the yellow fin tuna grilled in lemon/olive oil and served with tarragon-caper aioli with green beans and red potatoes. Our overall impression was lukewarm. Sending back a dish that is not prepared correctly, however, should enhance one’s dining experience.

Philly cheese steak and homemade chips at the Independence Mall Café.

Philly cheese steak and homemade chips at the Independence Mall Café.

We had to try the Philly cheese steak, and we did so at two different places – the National Constitution Center café and the Independence Mall Café. The version at the former was too salty, although the meat itself was tender, while the version at the latter café was dry but well seasoned. A little history of the cheese steak is in order: The cheese steak made its official debut in 1930. Pat Olivieri was a South Philadelphia hot dog vendor who decided to put some beef from the butcher on his grill. A taxicab driver noticed the aroma and asked for his own steak sandwich. The next day, as the story goes, rumor of the delicious lunch had spread, and cabbies around the city came to Olivieri demanding steak sandwiches. Soon after, Olivieri opened up a shop on 9th Street and Passyunk Avenue, Pat’s King of Steaks, to sell his new creation. Eventually, according to legend, he added cheese to the recipe. Today, Pat’s grills, which I learned about after our trip, are “sizzling 24 hours a day.”

On our first day in Philadelphia, we had time to go to the Visitors Center to become familiar with the area before heading out to Citizens Bank Ballpark for the Phillies game. We knew our dinner was going to be ballpark food, of course, so we tried to hold off eating. While in the Old City District, we stumbled upon Old City Frozen Yogurt and Crepes (229 Market Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.625.0500). I’ve become quite the frozen yogurt fiend, and since they had my favorite flavor and combo, Euro tart with fresh strawberries, I couldn’t resist. We were famished and for under eight bucks each, we indulged in their crepes, favoring savory over sweet with smoked Salmon, fresh tomatoes, cream cheese, capers, dill and lemon, and slow-cooked turkey, honey mustard and toasted almonds. That satisfied us at the time, but the frozen yogurt shop lured us back every evening for dessert for the rest of our trip.

Night-life dining in Old City District.

Night-life dining in Old City District.

When David accompanied me on a business trip to New York in the fall of 2008, we ventured to Buddakan, a family-style, modern Asian cuisine restaurant, and I can still say that I had the best meal of my life there. When we discovered that Buddakan (325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.574.9440) was also in Philadelphia, we immediately made reservations. We ordered Asian Cesar salad with spicy cashews, pork pot stickers with Chinese red vinegar dipping sauce, lobster fried rice with saffron and Thai basil, wasabi mashed potatoes with wasabi crème fraiche and chives, barbecue pork tenderloin with Chinese broccoli and giant panko onion rings, and miso black cod with bok choy, shitake musrooms, and unagi sauce. Our experience in New York, unfortunately, was not replicated in Philadelphia. The lobster fried rice and miso black cod – tender and melted in our mouths – were memorable on the palate, but everything else was just okay. Still, it might be a matter of making curated selections in order to meet our high expectations.

Empanadas at Cuba Libre.

Empanadas at Cuba Libre.

Happily, on our last night in Philadelphia we celebrated our great family vacation with a wonderfully flavorful dinner. The Sugarcube shop owner recommended Continental, but it didn’t seem like a family-friendly restaurant. We walked around that part of Old City District and came upon Cuba Libre Restaurant & Bar (10 South 2nd Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.627.0666), which is billed as being dedicated to a “continued exploration of Cuban heritage, art, music, flavors, and traditions.” The tropical décor was complemented by upbeat Latin music, and concept chef/partner, Guillermo Pernot, created a savory menu of “Nuevo Cubano” dishes or tapas.

Honey-glazed short ribs.

Honey-glazed short ribs.

Everything looked great and we knew any tapas we ordered would deliver an explosion of flavor. We opted for crispy plantain chips dipped into the Guacamole Cubano (avocado, grilled golden pineapple, roasted jalapeños, fresh lime juice, and extra virgin olive oil). Isabella’s favorite was the steamed Prince Edward Island mussels poached in lobster broth and roasted garlic. The Berkshire pork belly, which was slow roasted in a honey-soy glaze for 12 hours, was nestled in caramelized onions, steamed kale, and slow-roasted tomatoes. The popular Cuban staple, yuca root, not a favorite among us, was prepared as yuca fries with cilantro-caper aioli. The guava-glazed BBQ ribs came with jicama-sambal slaw. Our waiter recommended Mama Amelia’s empanadas of hand-chopped chicken, corn, and Jack cheese with aji-sour cream dipping sauce, which did not disappoint. We adults washed the food down with red sangria, a hearty mix of Porton Pisco, Malbec, blood orange puree, and seasonal fruit. I’ll be trying out Cuban cuisine in my backyard, now that I know how good it can be.

The food we eat on our vacation is an part of our experience and memories. It connects us to the places we want to learn about and embrace. If you ever stop by one of these restaurants, let me know what you thought – and pass it on.

Yuca fries and aioli dipping sauce.

Yuca fries and aioli dipping sauce.

Interacting with Philly’s hands-on museums

Equipped with his five senses, man explores the universe around him and calls the adventure science.
– Edwin Powell Hubble, American astronomer and one of the most important observational cosmologists of the 20th century

When going on a family vacation to a major city, we seek science and natural science museums, mostly for the kids’ entertainment, and in Philadelphia we visited some great interactive venues.

The entrance to the Franklin Institute.

The entrance to the Franklin Institute.

The Franklin Institute: ‘having fun down to a science’
The Franklin Institute (222 North 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103, 215.448.1200), opened in 1825, is one of the oldest centers of science education and development in the U.S. Newly expanded, it has 12 permanent exhibit galleries, including a flight simulator, which David and Jacob gamely took on. The Circus! exhibit featured a look at how biology and physics enabled circus performers to swallow swords and fly from cannons; neither kid, however, ventured to check out the trapeze or cannon exhibits. The Ocean Soul by National Geographic featured renowned photographer Brian Skerry and his up-close-and-personal, bursting-with-color photographs of the deep sea and its creatures. Other exhibits included learning about how the brain and heart work and understanding the physics in sports.

A big statue of the institute's namesake graces the rotunda.

A big statue of the institute’s namesake graces the rotunda.

Philadelphia History Museum: hometown history begins here
Not a science museum, but the Philadelphia History Museum at the Atwater Kent (15 South 7th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19106, 215.685.4830) feels somewhat interactive because visitors are surrounded by more than 100,000 historical objects, art, and artifacts of Philadelphia residents past and present in this very intimate museum. Founded in 1938 and reopened in 2012 after a three-year renovation, it was set up to be the city’s history museum, chronicling its time from the 1680s to present day. Face to Facebook is an interesting exhibit featuring portraits of Philadelphians from the 17th to the 21st centuries and how they viewed themselves. The main gallery of the eight-gallery museum consists of a large map of the city and surrounding suburbs. The museum is also actively collecting stories from residents to further capture the history of this vibrant city.

Checking out the room-sized map of the city at the Philadelphia History Museum.

Checking out the room-sized map of the city at the Philadelphia History Museum.

The Academy of Natural Sciences of Drexel University: ‘where science runs wild’
The Academy of Natural Sciences (1900 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, Philadelphia, PA 19103, 215.299.1000) of Drexel University was founded in 1812 and is the oldest natural science research institution and museum in the New World. This leading natural history museum is dedicated to advancing research, education, and public engagement in biodiversity and environmental science. Hands-down, this was one of the kids and our (adults) favorite museums in Philadelphia. Dinosaurs have been a love of the kids since they were toddlers, so the Dinosaur Hall, housed in the first floor, was the natural first stop.

Academy of Natural Sciences of Drexel University.

Academy of Natural Sciences of Drexel University.

We love butterflies, so we hung out at the top floor, which housed the winged creatures’ exhibit, and spent quite a bit of time patiently photographing them (and jostling for position with other photographers, as well). Complementing the butterfly exhibit, which is permanent, is the Pinned: Insect Art, Insect Science exhibit in the Art of Science Gallery. Artist Christopher Marley created intricate mosaics of insect specimens paired up with specimens from the Academy’s Entomology Collection.

We were obsessed with the butterflies.

We were obsessed with the butterflies.

The Academy boasts 37 dioramas, which seem archaic in our technology-driven world. While most of them were put together from the 1930s to the 1950s, they still haunt, intrigue, and instill wonder. A fascinating video and side exhibit demonstrated how these dioramas were created. While many feature familiar animals such as lions, zebras, gorillas, antelope, and other animals from Africa and Asia, the extinct passenger pigeon diorama is a sobering reminder of how fragile our ecosystem is.

More butterflies.

More butterflies.

One of our favorite exhibits was the Birds of Paradise: Amazing Avian Evolution, co-developed by the National Geographic and the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, which ran from May through Labor Day Weekend. The exhibit, which highlighted the groundbreaking research of photographer Tim Laman and Cornell ornithologist Edwin Scholes, transported us to the rainforests of New Guinea, where they painstakingly recorded, vividly photographed, and filmed the many different birds-of-paradise in their habitat, capturing such wondrous sights as their courtship dances. Laman and Scholes are passionate about educating the public about conserving the rainforests, home of these amazing birds, and the exhibit did a great job of teaching our kids the importance of protecting habitats such as rainforests and their inhabitants all over the world.

We didn’t catch every single museum in Philadelphia, but we sure did try. And enjoyed and educated ourselves along the way.

Another beautiful butterfly.

Another beautiful butterfly.

Philly museums: Rodin, fine art, and Dr. Albert Barnes

Living with and studying good paintings offers greater interest, variety, and satisfaction than any other pleasure known to man.
– Albert C. Barnes, physician, chemist, businessman, art collector, writer, educator, and founder of the Barnes Foundation

A trip to any city is not complete without exploring its fine art museums. Philadelphia is blessed with many, and we were fortunate to view and admire the many famous paintings, sculptures, and other objets d’art housed within the city’s museums.

The side of the Barnes Museum.

Looking at the front of the Barnes Museum from the side.

The Barnes Foundation
We weren’t allowed to take pictures inside the Barnes Foundation, which was established in 1922 to “promote the appreciation of the fine arts.” Founder Dr. Albert C. Barnes (1872-1951) grew up poor in working-class Philadelphia. He eventually earned his medical degree in at the University of Pennsylvania and made his money partnering to set up a pharmaceutical manufacturer. In 1908, he bought out his partner and launched the A.C. Barnes Company. His company produced Argyrol, an antiseptic silver compound that was used to treat gonorrhea and served as a preventative of gonorrheal blindness in newborns. Argyrol preceded the advent of antibiotics. The pharmaceutical company made him rich, and he sold his company months before the crash of 1929 to focus on his art collection and educational activities.

Reflecting before entering the Barnes Foundation.

David catches us reflecting before entering the Barnes Foundation.

He began seriously buying art in 1912, relying on former schoolmate, painter William J. Glackens, to advise him and purchase artwork in Paris on his behalf. Barnes educated his factory workers, setting up reading and discussion programs on topics that included aesthetics and art criticism. With encouragement from his friend John Dewey at Columbia University, he established his foundation. He collected one of the world’s most important holdings of post-impressionist and early modern paintings, including works by Cezanne, Matisse, Picasso, and Renoir, and snagged major works by van Gogh, Rousseau, and Modigliani. He also purchased African sculpture, Pennsylvania German furniture, Native American ceramics, jewelry, and textiles, American paintings, Mediterranean and Asian antiquities, and wrought iron objects from Europe and the United States. He presented his collection as ensembles, carefully and purposefully arranged across several galleries.

Trees scattered around the Barnes Foundation.

Rows of trees bordering the Barnes Foundation.

The original site of the Barnes Foundation was at the Merion campus, where in 1922 Barnes commissioned Paul Philippe Cret to design the gallery, administration building, and residence amid a 12-acre arboretum. The current museum is at 2025 Benjamin Franklin Parkway (215.278.7100). Barnes’s collection was incredible, and I’m thankful that my local Philly friends recommended that I put it on our itinerary. The building itself is beautiful and it’s on the way to the Rodin Museum and the Philadelphia Museum of Art. My sister Heidi recommended the documentary, The Art of the Steal (2009), which chronicles the battle for the control of Barnes’s $25 billion collection. After his death, despite his will stipulating that his art not be divided and sold off, the Philadelphia Museum of Art took control of part of his collection.

The entrance to the Rodin Museum.

The entrance to the Rodin Museum.

The Thinker at the museum's front gate.

The Thinker at the museum’s front gate.

Another outdoor sculpture gracing the garden.

Another outdoor sculpture gracing the garden.

The Gates of Hell sculpture at the entrance of the museum. Many of Rodin's standalone sculptures are modeled after the figures in these gates.

The Gates of Hell sculpture at the entrance of the museum. Many of Rodin’s standalone sculptures are modeled after the figures in these gates.

The Rodin Museum
Hailed as “the greatest collection of sculpture by August Rodin (1840-1917) outside of Paris,” the Rodin Museum (2154 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, Philadelphia, PA 19130, 215.763.8100), designed by French architect Paul Cret (1876-1945), opened in 1929. The “intimately scaled” museum, which has been newly restored, boasts Beaux-Arts architecture and is surrounded by French landscape designer Jacques Greber’s (1882-1962) formal French garden. Philadelphia native Jules E. Mastbaum, who was an entrepreneur and philanthropist, gifted his Rodin collection and founded the museum. The City responded, with more than 390,000 visitors its first year, enjoying Rodin’s sculptures both inside the museum and in the gardens. This is a beautiful museum all the way around – manageable and not overwhelming, with Rodin’s work nicely displayed.

The main gallery shows off the museum's Beaux-Arts architecture.

The main gallery shows off the museum’s Beaux-Arts architecture.

Assemblage of Heads of "The Burghers of Calais," plaster 1926.

Assemblage of Heads of “The Burghers of Calais,” in plaster, 1926.

Andromeda, marble 1886.

Andromeda, in marble, 1886.

Philadelphia Museum of Art
The Philadelphia Museum of Art is among the largest museums in the country, with more than 2,000 years of more than 227,000 paintings, sculptures, works on paper, photography, decorative arts, textiles, and architectural settings from Asia, Europe, Latin America, and the U.S. Rocky Balboa, from the movie Rocky made the steps leading up to the museum famous with his spirited sprint to the top and fist-waving before the view of the City. The museum is massive and we tried to see as many galleries as we could.

Outside the Greek Revival-style Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Outside the Greek Revival-style Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Detail from the Washington Monument at Eakins Oval, in front of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Detail from the Washington Monument at Eakins Oval, in front of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

A special exhibit on Frank Gehry's vision  for the museum.

The kids check out the special exhibit on Frank Gehry’s vision for the museum.

Today, actually, is the last day of special exhibit “Making a Classic Modern: Frank Gehry’s Master Plan for the Philadelphia Museum of Art,” which highlights internationally celebrated architect Frank Gehry’s vision for the renewal and expansion of the museum. Gehry is known for his “expressive sculptural forms of buildings,” including the Guggenheim Museum in Balboa, Spain. The exhibit includes a video of Gehry talking about his vision and large-scale models showing cross sections of the reimagined museum, which he and his team have been working on since 2006. The museum is currently raising funds to build it, which could take years.

Prestidigitator (Conjuring Trick), 1927, oil and watercolor on fabric, Paul Klee (Swiss, 1879-1940).

Prestidigitator (Conjuring Trick), 1927, oil and watercolor on fabric, Paul Klee (Swiss, 1879-1940).

The Kiss (1916, limestone) by Constantin Brancusi (French, born Romania, 1876-1957).

The Kiss, 1916, limestone, by Constantin Brancusi (French, born in Romania, 1876-1957).

Portrait (Dulcinea), 1911, oil on canvas, Marcel Duchamp (American, born France, 1887-1968).

Portrait (Dulcinea), 1911, oil on canvas, Marcel Duchamp (American, born in France, 1887-1968).

The view from the top of the stairs of the museum, looking at City Hall from one end of Benjamin Franklin Parkway to the other.

The view from the top of the stairs of the museum, looking at City Hall from one end of Benjamin Franklin Parkway to the other.