Roma day 3: return to the Coliseum and Forum

While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand; when falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall, and when Rome falls, the world.
– Lord Byron, English poet and leading figure of the Romantic Movement

I remember 18 years ago when we landed in Rome in the morning and we followed advice to stay awake the entire day so as not to prolong jet lag. Our first stop was the Coliseum and the Forum. And I remember vividly my awe as I approached the Coliseum and looked up at one of the great wonders of the world.

In all its glory, the Coliseum.

In all its glory, the Coliseum in panoramic view.

This time around, we weren’t a couple on the verge of becoming engaged. We were a family of four traveling with good friends, another family of four. We took two taxis and promptly wondered how we would communicate, given that we didn’t have Internet access. I remember the crowds, but somehow this time around the crowds were more intrusive. This is probably due to the influx of selfie sticks, which I now roundly condemn. No longer do people communicate with strangers and ask them to take their picture. Now we have single people or couples who don’t take into consideration who is behind them or in front of them, as they become self-absorbed in taking their photographs. But enough said of this phenomenon!

Arches just inside the entrance.

Arches just inside the entrance.

Family portrait with the Coliseum in the background.

Family portrait with the Coliseum in the background.

As before, I was in awe of the monuments. We took a guided tour, which was a mixed bag of having to deal with a crowd within a crowd and missing a lot of what our tour guide in training was saying because it was hard to decipher his words via the speakers. One thing we all agreed to hearing was how the word “vomit” came to be. Passage ways in the Coliseum were built below or behind the seats so that people could disperse quickly upon completion of the event or in an emergency evacuation. The Latin word “vomitoria” means rapid discharge. The English took that word to mean what we know it as today.

A panoramic view of the interior of the Coliseum.

A panoramic view of the interior of the Coliseum.

One other thing that I remember our tour guide telling us was the argument among archaeologists about whether to rebuild the Coliseum or to let it continue to crumble, showing the passage of time. I saw sections of the Coliseum that had been rebuilt with newer brick. After comparing them side by side, I have to agree with the archaeologists who believe that it should not be rebuilt. It just doesn’t look the same. Perhaps it can be rebuilt elsewhere, but the ruins remain as is. I agree that after all is said and done, you can’t renovate a masterpiece. It becomes part of antiquity and future generations can read books and see photographs – and perhaps see a rebuilt version on other grounds.

The gang's all here for a group shot in the Coliseum.

The gang’s all here for a group shot in the Coliseum.

After the Coliseum tour, we ate our first mediocre meal of our trip, which we figured would be the case, given its proximity to the Coliseum and our understanding that many of these nearby dining establishments cater to tourists. That was planned because after lunch we then went to the Forum, an enormous rectangular piazza filled with wondrous ancient ruins.

The arch before entering the Forum.

The massive Arch of Constantine before entering the Forum.

Detail from the Arch of Constantine.

Detail from the Arch of Constantine.

Detail of a broken piece on the grounds of the Forum.

Detail of a broken piece on the grounds of the Forum.

A view of the Arch

A view of the Arch of Septimus Severus, which is at one end of the Forum.

A long view of the Forum facing the entrance to the Forum.

A long view of the Forum facing the entrance to the Forum.

A grouping of ruins.

A grouping of ruins.

Columns facing a cloudy sky.

Columns facing a cloudy sky.

The one ruin I was especially looking forward to revisiting was the Vestal of Virgins. David had taken a series of black-and-white photographs of this row of statues 18 years ago. After walking around, we thought perhaps they were behind sections that were cordoned off for refurbishing. Thank goodness, to my delight, the last section we entered was the famed ruin. It did not disappoint. Neither did David’s new set of photographs.

My favorite area of the Forum - the Vestal Virgins.

My favorite area of the Forum – the Vestal Virgins.

A lone virgin.

A lone virgin.

The Vestal Virgins and backdrop.

The Vestal Virgins and backdrop.

While we were walking around the grounds of the Vestal of Virgins, the promised thunderstorm that was lurking behind gathering clouds early afternoon finally came down with mighty force. We were prepared with our rain jackets and umbrellas. As Sofia, Raissa and Mike’s daughter, dutifully held the umbrella to protect David’s camera, David took this amazing photograph:

The Forum during a thunderstorm.

The Forum during a thunderstorm.

One thing David and I didn’t do when we were here 18 years ago was go to the top of the gardens and overlook the Forum. We were in for a breathtaking treat, which was a fitting way to conclude our visit to the Forum.

Amazing clouds over a glorious sweep of the Forum.

Amazing clouds over a glorious sweep of the Forum.

A view from the top of the Forum looking toward the entrance.

A view from the top of the Forum looking toward the entrance.

To the far left of the Forum from the top of the gardens.

A view of the far left of the Forum from the top of the gardens.

A panoramic view of the Forum.

A panoramic view of the Forum.

Our last stop of the day was to see Michelangelo’s statue of Moses (with horns) at San Pietro in Vincoli (Saint Peter in Chains). The famous marble statue was commissioned in 1505 by Pope Julius II for his tomb. Michelangelo worked on it from 1513 to 1515. The church also contains the chains of Peter, which were used to bound Saint Peter when he was imprisoned in Jerusalem.

Seeing Michelangelo's Moses the second time around is not any less impressive than seeing it for the first time.

Seeing Michelangelo’s Moses the second time around is not any less impressive than seeing it for the first time.

We concluded our evening with our last dinner at the Grotta Azzura, two doors down. And went to bed with our red birds safely watching over us in our Roma apartment.

I'm going to miss waking up in this amazing four-poster bed with red birds in flight above me.

I’m going to miss waking up in this amazing four-poster bed with red birds in flight above me.