Return to Chicago: ‘City of the Big Shoulders’

Come and show me another city with lifted head singing so proud to be alive and coarse and strong and singing…proud to be a Hog Butcher, Tool Maker, Stacker of Wheat, Player with Railroads and Freight Handler to the Nation.
– Carl Sandberg, American writer, poet, and editor

When I was still packing at 11pm on a Friday night, knowing that I had to get up at 3am the next morning to leave the house at 4am, I told myself that yes, it was worth leaving that early for my flight from Oakland International to Chicago. I was going to be working Sunday through Wednesday for my company’s annual conference, and the only day I had to explore the Windy City was Saturday afternoon. I slept on my flight, and by the time I was in the cab heading into the heart of Chicago, I knew I had made the right decision.

On my way to dinner my first evening in Chicago - a beautiful cityscape sunset on the Chicago River.

On my way to dinner to join my colleagues at the Stout on my first evening in Chicago – a beautiful cityscape sunset on the Chicago River.

If you're not going to get a room at the W City Center with a real view, you might as well have a view of fantastic architecture, the Marriott on N. Adams.

If you’re not going to get a room with a real view at the W City Center, you might as well have a view of fantastic architecture, in this instance the Marriott on N. Adams.

Armed with Google map on my iPhone, I found the Blue Line (actually by asking locals since I’m useless with north-south-east-west directions), got myself in the right direction, and was reunited with my favorite neighborhood of vintage goods – Wicker Park. For those keeping notes, that would be heading to Forest Park and getting off at Damen. I immediately found my way to Eskell (1509 N. Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago, 60622, 773.486.0830), where I first discovered Laura Lombardi’s industrial-vibe jewelry years earlier. Unfortunately, Eskell was out of stock of her jewelry, but they carry a wonderful collection of their own label earrings, necklaces, and bracelets. Better still, their label is reasonably priced. Surprisingly, the first thing that caught my eye was their selection of sunglasses. I tried on a pair that was part Western, part Hollywood, and it seemed destined to be worn by me, walking out of the store and into the warm late afternoon – with a very spring temperature in the upper 60s.

Eskell shop dog lounging in the same spot when I was here last - two years ago.

Eskell shop dog Goose lounging in the same spot when I was last here – two years ago.

It was a sunny spring afternoon in the Windy City - so shopping for sunglasses was appropriate.

It was a sunny spring afternoon in the Windy City – so shopping for sunglasses was appropriate.

I'll take these cool silver-tipped shades....

I’ll take these cool silver-tipped shades….

Eclectic shop design - keys and horns.

Eclectic shop design – vintage photographs, keys, and horns.

Eskell label delicate drop earrings with a sterling silver shell ring I got at Eskell on my last visit.

Eskell label delicate drop earrings with a sterling silver shell ring I got at Eskell on my last visit.

Eskell features its own inexpensive line of edgy jewelry.

Eskell features its own inexpensive line of edgy jewelry.

Vibes of Cleopatra in these geometric drop earrings.

Vibes of Cleopatra in these geometric drop earrings.

Vintage brass earrings designed by Eskell.

Vintage brass earrings designed by Eskell.

I didn’t have to go far to hit Vintage Underground (1507 N. Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago, 60622, 773.384.7880) and see if owner Carlos and his assistants, Ada and Ellen, were there that Saturday. Indeed, they were! I wasn’t sure if they would remember me, but with a little prodding and immediate recognition from Ellen, they did all remember. I told Carlos that my blog post about his borrowed paraphrased advice: “Plant a tree, write a book” was the most viewed blog post for me ever (not that I have legions of people following me or discovering my blog, but that blog post still reigns supreme). The full quote is “Plant a tree, have a child, write a book.” Since my last visit to the shop in December 2013, I learned that the original  Vintage Underground, which was housed in the basement of a building several blocks away, consolidated with its other shop on N. Milwaukee Avenue, which is now where you’ll find heaps upon heaps of vintage treasures.

Next door neighbor: Vintage Underground!

Next door neighbor to Eskell: Vintage Underground!

Dazzling vintage rhinestone jewelry.

Dazzling vintage rhinestone jewelry.

More vintage bling. The fun part was trying on the oversized ball earrings.

More vintage bling. The fun part was trying on the oversized ball earrings from the 1970s on the left of the top shelf.

As you can see, combining inventory of two locations results in a shop overflowing, dripping with treasures. I could have spent the rest of the day poring over the jewelry in the glass cabinets. I checked out the vintage rhinestone and crystal necklaces and earrings. I tried on the statement sterling silver necklaces. As Carlos rang up my purchase of a 1970s sterling silver necklace made in Mexico, I told him with a heavy heart that my parent company is no longer going to have its annual conference in Chicago. He mourned with me, but responded with a smile, “So you’ll have to come here just for pleasure.” Indeed.

Sterling silver necklace from Mexico. Better left unpolished.

Sterling silver necklace from Mexico. Advice from Ada: Better left unpolished for character.

The crew at Vintage Underground - Carlos and X and X.

The fabulous crew at Vintage Underground – from left to right, Ellen, Carlos, and Ada. This photo belongs in a fashion mag.

Wicker Park - retail shops take over old buildings, but you can still appreciate the architecture.

Wicker Park – retail shops take over old buildings, but you can still appreciate the architecture.

I had a lot of fun moderating a diverse panel of experts on the topic of population health management for one of our clients at their booth in the cavernous exhibit hall in the equally cavernous McCormack Place.

On Monday and Tuesday afternoon, I had a lot of fun moderating a diverse panel of experts on the topic of population health management for one of our clients at their booth in the cavernous exhibit hall in the equally cavernous McCormack Place. Give a Filipino a microphone and don’t be surprised if he or she breaks out in song.

I had a great, though grueling, conference, reuniting with my colleagues and getting to know our clients during dinners and events. But what I really enjoyed was walking around Chicago. Everywhere I turned, I found architectural gems. I think that is what I love the most about this city – its unique and abundant architecture and also the Chicago River.

Every block you turn, you get great architecture.

Every block you turn, you get great architecture.

Carl Sandburg called Chicago "City of the Big Shoulders" in his poem "Chicago."

Carl Sandburg called Chicago “City of the Big Shoulders” in his poem “Chicago.”

My "frolleague" Eric Wicklund and I walked from our Maggiano's dinner to the Magnificent Mile, marveling at the glowing cityscape and the mild spring evening.

My “frolleague” Eric Wicklund and I walked from our Maggiano’s dinner to the Magnificent Mile, marveling at the glowing cityscape and thoroughly enjoying the mild spring evening.

I don’t know when I’ll return to Chicago, but as it is one of my favorite cities, I know it won’t be too long a time in between. Only next time, I’ll be on vacation and spending my days and evenings soaking in all the Windy City has to offer.

I've been to the top of Willis Tower, which was two blocks from my hotel, but for our client dinner my last evening in Chicago, we were treated to dinner at the Metropolitan Club on the 67th Floor.

I’ve been to the top of Willis Tower, which was two blocks from my hotel, but for our client dinner my last evening in Chicago, we were treated to dinner at the Metropolitan Club on the 67th Floor, with an amazing top-of-the-world kind of view.

Carl Sandburg: "Come and show me another city with lifted head singing so proud to be alive and coarse and strong and cunning."

Surreal, mesmerizing view of skyscrapers – like toy building blocks crowded together.

Looking down on the Chicago Board of Trade Building with the statue of Ceres on top...and a reflection of the Metropolitan Club tables.

Night falls: Looking down on the Chicago Board of Trade Building with the statue of Ceres on top…and a reflection of the Metropolitan Club tables.

Goodnight, Chicago.

Goodnight, Chicago, from the Metropolitan Club. Last words from Carl Sandburg: “By night the skyscraper looms in the smoke and the stars and has a soul.”