The views from our shelter-in-place walks

I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in.
– John Muir, influential Scottish-American naturalist, author, environmental philosopher, botanist, zoologist, glaciologist, and early advocate for the preservation of wilderness in the United States of America

When the county issued a shelter-in-place order on March 16, 2020, I was finishing up working out at our local gym. We were told the order would last for three weeks. Without a structure in place, especially for someone who is so reliant on routine, I fell off of my exercise regimen. Soon, suffering from cabin fever, I started looking for a different form of cardio exercise. We decided to go on long walks with our dog, Sammy. First it was a threesome with my husband, David, and my daughter, then it became just David and me. In the beginning we walked to Memorial Grove in El Cerrito, but the downhill walk was a little treacherous with the gravelly and pebbly path.

We started our walks after our work day, and we headed up a long, uphill road and took meandering streets to get back to our house in the flats. It was about 3.5 miles, which took us a little over an hour. Sometimes we walked all the way up Moeser Avenue to Arlington, which wound its way through the towns of Kensington and Berkeley, and then to El Cerrito. That walk often took 2.5 hours. This walk was mostly with my daughter and me, which was a really peaceful and leisurely time for us to connect. Soon we developed a routine when my daughter stopped walking the rigorous uphill climb. At one point, we timed the uphill climb to 11 minutes and 55 seconds in June, but we haven’t been able to beat that time.

Along the way, we saw some great views, fauna, and flora. I knew at some point, wherever we were with shelter in place and the pandemic, I would put together a collage of photos from our walks. With autumn here and daylight savings looming a month away, our routine will once again change, but for now, here are memories of what I call our “shelter-in-place” walks. Enjoy!

Black birds on a bare tree in March.
A late end to our walk results in a beautiful sunset.
At the top of Memorial Grove, a view of the bay, San Francisco, the Golden Gate Bridge, and Marin.
A closer view of the City.
Tangled tree branches at Memorial Grove.
This is a closeup of a tree at Memorial Grove. This reminds me of a Georgia O’Keefe painting.
Another closeup view of the tree. This is more O’Keefe!
A field of poppies.
A majestic cloud, like a bust, in shadow and light, near our house at the start of our walk.
A blustery March view at the top of Memorial Grove of San Francisco Bay.
Looking upward at the trees at Memorial Grove.
Another view of a Memorial Grove tree.
An iris near the high school.
I need to download the app that identifies plants and flowers on your phone. This bloom looks like a bouquet of tiny flowers.
April sunset from behind Sunset Cemetery.
Another view of the sunset.
The sinking sun at Sunset Cemetery.
We are all familiar with the turkeys that rule El Cerrito and the hills. This is up Stockton Street.
On the longer walk along Arlington Avenue, I recognized this house that I had seen years before and admired for its beautiful landscaping and details, and the traditional Colonial-style house, of course.
A closeup of the house.
A delicate bloom in a garden along Colusa Avenue.
The ferny bush and blooms.
Tangled tree branches dark against the green leaves at Memorial Grove.
Another view of the tree branches and leaves.
Closeup of a giant succulent.
A very plump turkey.
This turkey is strutting in style – belongs in a fashion magazine for turkeys.
Birds on a wire and tree branches.
Is this a monkey flower?
A May view of the City from afar, along Terrace Avenue.
A very elegant raven posed for me on rocks, iron benches, amid poppies. Surely, it deserves four photos!
Strike a pose, Raven!
Another shot of the raven.
The last raven photo.
I’d love to know what this beautiful flower is!
David spotted this hawk in a tall tree along Terrace Avenue.
A crane seen along Moeser Avenue.
A mid-May view of the City along Terrace Avenue.
A beautiful May late afternoon of the San Francisco Bay.
This is an otherworldly plant and its blooms.
A small park along Arlington Avenue.
A deer in someone’s yard along Arlington Avenue.
Turkeys rule the front yard of this home in early June.

An amazing bloom of an unidentified plant in late July.
A bucolic front yard with a steel bird bath at a house along Arlington Avenue.
This has been a terrible firestorm season and we’ve had some really bad bouts of heat waves, which all point to the impact of climate change. The one day where the sun didn’t come out, it was completely dark outside, and when the sun did show up it was an eerily orange disc, it felt horrifically Apocalyptic. I didn’t take any pictures, although I’ve seen many that have captured what it felt like that day. Instead, I’m going to end with two photos of the view from Terrace Avenue in El Cerrito of San Francisco Bay and the City. So clear on that Friday late afternoon. This is my home.
I leave you with this one image showing both the City and the Golden Gate Bridge on a sunny and very clear day, a rarity this summer and fall. Had we not gone through shelter in place, I don’t think we would have taken this walk for our daily exercise and seen this gorgeous view. Once daylight savings hits, we’ll be limited in taking the walk up Moeser and winding down Terrace on weekends and fair weather, but we have these great photos and memories to keep this view in our hearts. May some good come out of your shelter in place.

Hawaiian family vacation

Hawaii is not a state of mind, but a state of grace.
– Paul Theroux, American travel writer and novelist

It’s nearly the end of the year, end of December, and I’m just now getting to our family vacation and Rossi Family reunion on the Big Island of Hawai’i? Call me stubborn. It had been on my list forever, and now I’m finally getting to it. I won’t give much in the way of narration. In my haste, I offer photographs and captions. I will say that this was a family trip to honor David’s father, Jerry, who turned 80 years young in June and retired just a few months ago. A life well lived. And a nice place to celebrate. I spent a summer and Christmas in 1989 on the main island. It was great to be able to see another side of the beautiful islands of Hawai’i.

First, photos around our condo on the Kona side of the island. This is our view from our living room window.
First, photos around our condo on the Kona side of the island. This is our view from our living room window.
After a rainstorm, we were graced with a rainbow. From our cluster of condos.
After a rainstorm, we were graced with a rainbow. From our cluster of condos.
Sunset on Kona.
Sunset on Kona.
Another view near our condo by the waterfront.
Another view near our condo by the waterfront.
We did a lot of poke!
We did a lot of poke!
And the poke was good.
And the poke was good.
Punaluʻu Beach is a beach between Pāhala and Nāʻālehu on the Big Island of the U.S. state of Hawaii. The beach has black sand made of basalt and created by lava flowing into the ocean which explodes as it reaches the ocean and cools. This volcanic activity is in the Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.
Punaluʻu Beach is a beach between Pāhala and Nāʻālehu on the Big Island. The beach has black sand made of basalt and created by lava flowing into the ocean which explodes as it reaches the ocean and cools. This volcanic activity is in the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. Some resting big turtles.
This is the closest I could get to one of these gentle sea turtles.
This is the closest I could get to one of these gentle sea turtles.
Looking down the vast volcano floor at the  Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park.  We hiked all the way down and across. At least it wasn't too hot and humid. It was a pretty incredible experience.
Looking down the vast volcano floor at the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. We hiked all the way down and across. At least it wasn’t too hot and humid. It was a pretty incredible experience.
Another view of the volcano floor.
Another view of the volcano floor.
The floor was broken up in many places with hardy brush dotting the landscape and piles of rocks constructed by visitors.
The floor was broken up in many places with hardy brush dotting the landscape and piles of rocks constructed by visitors.
How far are we going? I seem to be asking.
How far are we going? I seem to be asking.
One last look after coming back up.
One last look after coming back up.
After the hike across the volcano floor and visiting the visitor's center, we headed east to hike through Akaka Falls State Park.
After the hike across the volcano floor and visiting the visitor’s center, we headed east to hike through Akaka Falls State Park.
Akaka Falls did not disappoint. It was spectacular.
Akaka Falls did not disappoint. It was spectacular.
We were surrounded by beautiful flora.
We were surrounded by beautiful flora.
It's not easy being green - except in Hawai'i.
It’s not easy being green – except in Hawai’i.
If I knew what I was looking at, I would let you know, but I can only stare, take a picture, and take a few moments in silence to appreciate the beauty of Hawai'i.
If I knew what I was looking at, I would let you know, but I can only stare, take a picture, and take a few moments in silence to appreciate the beauty of Hawai’i.
Amazing!
Amazing!
My favorite picture of Isabella and Jacob from Hawai'i.
My favorite picture of Isabella and Jacob from Hawai’i.
And the favorite family photo from Hawai'i.
And the favorite family photo from Hawai’i.
We ended the long day with burgers at Hilo Burger Joint. The Rossi clan!
We ended the long day with burgers at Hilo Burger Joint. The Rossi clan!
The next day, a group of us went on a snorkeling trip to Captain Cook’s Cove. We didn’t get to the second spot, which was full of lava caves, because we got a late start from bathroom problems on the boat to an elderly woman who passed out and had to be brought back to shore. Quite an adventure before we even got to Captain Cook’s Cove. I didn’t last but 10 minutes. David kept saying, “You better tell them you can’t swim.” I grabbed a floating noodle, but that didn’t prepare me when I climbed off the last step of the ladder into the water. It was clear enough for me to see to the bottom, but the bottom was 200 feet away from me. So after scrambling and dragging David down with me, he safely brought me back to the boat, where I watched everyone else snorkel!
Isabella waves to David before she decides she is tired and he has to drag her back to the boat.
Isabella waves to David and then she decides she is tired and he has to drag her back to the boat.
A pretty cool picture of Jacob snorkeling.
A pretty cool picture of Jacob snorkeling.
I took this picture of Captain Cook's Cove. I didn't last but 10 minutes. David kept saying, "You better tell them you can't swim." I grabbed a floating noodle, but that didn't prepare me when I climbed off the last step of the ladder into the water. It was clear enough for me to see to the bottom, but the bottom was 200 feet away from me. So after scrambling and dragging David down with me, he safely brought me back to the boat, where I watched everyone else snorkel!
I took this picture of Captain Cook’s Cove. I didn’t last but 10 minutes. David kept saying, “You better tell them you can’t swim.” I grabbed a floating noodle, but that didn’t prepare me when I climbed off the last step of the ladder into the water. It was clear enough for me to see to the bottom, but the bottom was 200 feet away from me. So after scrambling and dragging David down with me, he safely brought me back to the boat, where I watched everyone else snorkel!
I found a museum downtown that was newly founded by enthusiastic volunteers who wanted to honor Hawaiian quilts - the Kona Hawaiian Quilt Museum ( 75-5706 Kuakini Hwy APT 112, Kailua-Kona, HI 96740).
I found a museum downtown that was newly founded by enthusiastic volunteers who wanted to honor Hawaiian quilts – the Kona Hawaiian Quilt Museum ( 75-5706 Kuakini Hwy APT 112, Kailua-Kona, HI 96740).
The quilt on the left is an antique. It was quite seditious for its time. Patriots would put these quilts on their bed, but when subjected to searches, they would flip the quilt over to hide their patriotism to the Hawaiian royalty. Pretty amazing history.
The quilt on the left is an antique. It was quite seditious for its time. Patriots would put these quilts on their bed, but when subjected to searches, they would flip the quilt over to hide their patriotism to the Hawaiian royalty. Pretty amazing history.
This quilt honors the fiery volcano eruption of 2018, which caused a lot of devastation to homes and flora and fauna.
This quilt honors the fiery volcano eruption of 2018, which caused a lot of devastation to homes and flora and fauna.
Some more quilts with a Hawaiian theme.
Some more quilts with a Hawaiian theme.
Vintage Hawaiian-themed quilts.
Vintage Hawaiian-themed quilts.
Look what I found in the nearby shopping center - at the Hawaiian shaved ice shack - Halo halo with ube ice cream!
Look what I found in the nearby shopping center – at the Hawaiian shaved ice shack – Halo halo with ube ice cream!
We found a horse ranch on the Hilo side of the island, so Isabella could have her horse-riding fix.
We found a horse ranch on the Hilo side of the island, so Isabella could have her horse-riding fix.
While Isabella rode....
While Isabella rode….
We cavorted with the adopted pig at the horse ranch.
We cavorted with the adopted pig at the horse ranch.
Jacob found a friend among the many dogs on the ranch.
Jacob found a friend among the many dogs on the ranch.
Afterwards, we went in search of Rainbow Falls and were delighted.
Afterwards, we went in search of Rainbow Falls and were delighted.
Have to get the mom and daughter photo in - at Rainbow Falls.
Have to get the mom and daughter photo in – at Rainbow Falls.
Not sure what kind of tree this is, but what a creation - a tangle of branches and roots.
Not sure what kind of tree this is, but what a creation – a tangle of branches and roots.
We had a great meal at the Fish and the Hog Market Cafe. It was a hoppin' place.
We had a great meal at the Fish and the Hog Market Cafe. It was a hoppin’ place.
Poke and dahlias.
Poke and dahlias.
I don't know what this is, but there was nothing left on the plate after Jacob was done.
I don’t know what this is, but there was nothing left on the plate after Jacob was done.
We took a Kona Coffee tour at Greenwell Farms. And it was good.
We took a Kona Coffee tour at Greenwell Farms. And it was good.
I don't know what this is, but it's pretty amazing.
I don’t know what this is, but it’s pretty amazing.
Amazing patterns in this huge tree.
Amazing patterns in this huge tree.
Coffee beans. Kona coffee beans!
Coffee beans. Kona coffee beans!
We also did a little tour of the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory and sampled delicious chocolates. These are cocoa beans, or pods.
We also did a little tour of the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory and sampled delicious chocolates. These are cocoa beans, or pods.
We did a lot of wandering, and met up with this fella.
We did a lot of wandering, and met up with this fella.
Sea turtle in shallow waters.
Sea turtle in shallow waters.
Same guy? Different part of the beach.
Same guy? Different part of the beach.
Jacob patiently waiting for sea turtles to ascend.
Jacob patiently waiting for sea turtles to ascend.
We frequented Rebel Kitchen a few times for lunch ( 79-7399 Hawaii Belt Rd, Kealakekua, HI 96750).
We frequented Rebel Kitchen a few times for lunch ( 79-7399 Hawaii Belt Rd, Kealakekua, HI 96750).
Some type of fish dish at Rebel Kitchen.
Some type of fish dish at Rebel Kitchen.
With one last look at the sea turtles.
With one last look at the sea turtles.
And the last dinner on the Big Island with the Rossi clan at the Kona Brewing Company....
And the last dinner on the Big Island with the Rossi clan at the Kona Brewing Company….
We went snorkeling in other local beaches. We had time on our last day for David and the kids to do one last dive into the ocean. David caught this sea turtle descending with a GoPro camera at Two Step State Beach. Fittingly, this is our last image of our time in Hawai’i.

Family vacation in France: Day 16 in Chantilly and Senlis

Whoever does not visit Paris regularly will never really be elegant.
 – Honoré de Balzac, French novelist and playwright

It’s difficult to enjoy Day 16 of a family vacation when Day 16 is the last day. It was on my mind when I woke up in Versailles that morning and throughout the day, though I did my best to live in the moment. We were originally slated to drive from Versailles to Senlis, where we were going to spend the night because it was only 15 miles from Charles de Gaulle Airport, where we needed to drop off the Hertz rental car and would be flying out of. But I was hoping I could somehow get to Paris and get these “butterfly” earrings that I was coveting our last night in Paris (but the shop was closed before its listed close time). After a “discussion,” David said we’d drive through Paris to Senlis, which is something he didn’t want to suffer through – Paris traffic. But that’s what we did. It was not without drama, as on the way into Paris, a road-raged motorcyclist tried to speed ahead of our car as David merged. He slapped the side-view mirror on David’s side of the car before speeding off, but then we saw him slow down in our lane and force the two cars ahead of us to pass him. To my horror, he slowed down to my side of the car and slammed the side-view mirror in. Thankfully, he drove off. At any rate, we drove to the shop in Île Saint-Louis, I hopped out in front of the shop and purchased the earrings, and we drove off.

From Paris, after a difficult time getting out of Paris, thanks to our GPS’s bad directions, we drove straight to Domaine de Chantilly. This would be our seventh and final château to visit, if you’re counting Versailles as a château and not a palace – and the Château de Chantilly was a fitting end to our run of French châteaux.

Château de Chantilly from the entrance.

Impressive statue, but I don’t know who this is. Perhaps the Duke of Aumale? Château de Chantilly.

A panoramic view of the Château de Chantilly.

The French-style garden, Château de Chantilly.

Château de Chantilly, which was built during the Middle Ages by various owners, is a beautiful castle. “Anne de Montmorency, constable of king François I, inherited the Château de Chantilly and transformed the building, located on a rocky outcrop, into a Renaissance-style château. The Condé dynasty subsequently extended the domain, commissioned the French-style garden from Le Nôtre, had the Great Stables built, and made the domain a place of cultural and gastronimcal festivity.”

Hunting dogs statue, Château de Chantilly.

Corner of Château de Chantilly.

A view of Château de Chantilly coming from the Great Stables.

A view of Château de Chantilly surrounded by water.

Château de Chantilly was destroyed during the Revolution. Henri d’Orléans Duke of Aumale, who was heir of the last of the Condés and son of king Louis-Philippe, the last of the French kings, spent 23 years in exile in England, where he acquired a massive collection of paintings, furniture, books, manuscripts, and decorative arts. When he returned to France, he rebuilt the château to house his collections. The duke has a singular vision that ruled his life – to “embellish and restore Chantilly.” He created the Condé museum within the heart of the château specifically for his treasures. The museum houses 550 works presented on dark red walls. There are three Raphael paintings and a Delacroix painting in this collection. The library and reading room house nearly 19,000 works, including 1,500 manuscripts.

The most impressive and dramatic room in Château de Chantilly for me was the Gallery of Painting.

A Delacroix painting, Château de Chantilly.

One of three Raphael paintings, Château de Chantilly.

Luminous Française painting, Château de Chantilly.

A Pompeii mosaic on the floor of the Rotunda in the Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

Ceiling painting in the Rotunda in the Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

Painting and sculpture, the Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

I’m envious of the Reading Room. Look at all those books and manuscripts on two levels! Château de Chantilly.

Close-up of the protected stacks of books in the Reading Room, Château de Chantilly.

Detail of a stained-glass panel, one of many telling Biblical stories, Château de Chantilly.

“With no direct heir, he decided to bequeath the Domaine de Chantilly and its treasures to the Institut de France, which groups the five Academies, in his 1884 testament.” His will stated that his paintings – hanging on several levels in the 19th century fashion – had to be maintained and could not be loaned out of Chantilly. “He sought to make the Domaine de Chantilly a place of exception open to the public.”

The Duke of Aumale’s paintings remain hung the way he wished – 19th-century style of hanging on several levels on a wall, Château de Chantilly.

Paintings in the appropriately named Gallery of Painting, Château de Chantilly.

Elaborately decorated cabinet, Château de Chantilly.

Detail of a painting in the corner of a ceiling, Château de Chantilly.

Another Pompeii mosaic but hanging over a mantle, Château de Chantilly.

Staircase looking up to where the Chapel is located, Château de Chantilly.

Staircase detail, Château de Chantilly.

The Chapel, Château de Chantilly.

Detail of statue in the Chapel, Château de Chantilly.

A cabinet full of beautiful, detailed fans, Château de Chantilly.

Looking out into the courtyard from inside, with a screen providing texture, Château de Chantilly.

Before we ventured out on the very warm day, we had lunch outdoors in the château’s La Capitainerie Restaurant. I savored my last glass of wine with lunch and my last French lunch.

Gazpacho on a hot day, yes, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

My dish of fish, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

David’s steak, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

Getting punchy on our last day in France, La Capitainerie Restaurant, Château de Chantilly.

After lunch, we ventured to some of the gardens, but we missed much of the sprawling grounds. We did not step down past the château to the French-style garden, which is somewhat reminiscent of the garden at Château de Chambord and designed by André Le Nôtre,  French landscape architect and the principal gardener of King Louis XIV. We missed the numerous fountains, water features, and collection of statues. We also missed the Anglo-Chinese garden, which was designed in 1773, and the Petit Parc, which was created in the early 18th century.

Fountain in the 19th century English Garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

The Temple of Venus from afar, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

The château from the English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Bust, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Stopping for duck watching, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Isabella contemplating her reflection in the stream, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Bench and stream, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Stream reflecting the sky and clouds, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Bridge over stream, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

We did venture to the English garden, which sits on a plot that was left vacant from a part of Le Nôtre’s gardens that were destroyed during the Revolution. There were quaint bridges, park benches by the stream, fountains, and ponds thick with water lilies. As we made our way across this garden, we captured beautiful photographs of Château de Chantilly with the water in the foreground. I have to say that there were so many memorable views of the château.

Apologies for four straight photographs of the château from the English garden, but it was difficult to curate such a beautiful view, Domaine de Chantilly. This one is from far away, with the château framed by reflective stream, trees and grasses, and the glorious sky and clouds.

Coming around the bend, a little closer view of the château from the English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Closer still to the château from the English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

My lone entrant of the château bordered by nature, Domaine de Chantilly.

The lush and peaceful English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Stream and trees, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

On the Island of Love, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Great Men’s Bridge, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

Water lilies, stream, sky, and clouds, English garden, Domaine de Chantilly.

We made our way to the Great Stables, which were built in the 18th century and were considered a horses’ palace. Originally dedicated to hunting, they were converted to barracks during the Revolution. They were converted back to stables in 1815. Isabella was in heaven going through the Museum of the Horse, which was inaugurated in 2013 in the 15 rooms of the Cour des Remises in the Great Stables. She got to see some beautiful horses and we bought her a pair of stirrup earrings to commemorate her time at Domaine de Chantilly.

Detail of the entrance to the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

Angry carousel horse, Museum of the Horse, the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

Isabella with horse sculpture, the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

One of many horses in the Great Stables, Domaine de Chantilly.

The Great Stables from afar, Domaine de Chantilly.

As we made our way back to our car, we savored our walk around the château and more views of this beautiful estate. Three different wedding parties were having their photography session on the grounds. I couldn’t think of a grander place for such an event. While tourists roamed the grounds, the château was never crowded, and we made our way without encountering any congestion.

Another view of the memorable Château de Chantilly.

We drove to Senlis and had another challenging drive to our hotel for our last night. La Villa Camille is a charming rustic hotel, but the road it was on was under construction, so we were stuck and David had to back out on the very narrow roads. We ended up calling our host and he came out to direct us where to park. Then we encountered another problem – his booking streams weren’t synched up, and he had not room for us. But he came up with a solution, and we ended up with his room in the attic. It’s a very roomy attic with beds for everyone. We had a lovely view of Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Senlis, which was constructed beginning in 1153.

Our room with a view, Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Quaint cat and sign, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

The courtyard garden, with orange horse and a reclining Jacob, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Our attic room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Sitting area off of the bathroom in our room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

The kids’ side of the attic room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

The view of Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis from La Villa Camille’s courtyard garden, Senlis.

Feeling bad about the mix-up, though in the end everything was fine, our host at La Villa Camille made reservations for us for dinner at La Scaramouche (4 Place Notre Dame, 60300 Senlis), which is across from Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Senlis. It was a Saturday evening, a wedding had taken place, and so we didn’t get an outdoor table. We ate inside, and though the food was magical, we were sweating inside because it was so warm and the restaurant had no air conditioning! But would I trade our evening for just any restaurant with air conditioning? Non! The wine was heavenly, the food gastronomically satisfying, and the dessert sinful. Fitting for our last meal in France. It was also Jacob’s last glass of French wine. Sigh.

Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis, which was across from La Scaramouche.

Cocktails, please, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Bread and charcuterie, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Delicious crostini with goat cheese, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Jacob’s potatoes and chicken, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

My last French meal of duck, canard, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

David’s tuna, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

Isabella’s duck, La Scaramouche, Senlis.

The front of La Scaramouche, Senlis, where we wished we were seated!

By the time we finished our dinner, Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis was all lit up.

After dinner, we stayed up for a drink with our La Villa Camille host in the hotel’s whimsical garden. We talked politics, similarities between France and California (our host felt there were similarities), and his family history (he showed us framed letters that his forebears received from Napoleon and WWII dignitaries). His home was decorated with so much family history. I wish we had more time to appreciate La Villa Camille. We would have loved to have stayed longer, but repacking beckoned us, as well as a very early departure. It was nice, however, to have spent our last night with a drink and congenial conversation. Bonne nuit and au revoir!

Notre-Dame Cathedral de Senlis early in the morning of our departure from our window of our room, La Villa Camille, Senlis.

Family vacation in France: Day 15 in Versailles

Everything ends this way in France – everything. Weddings, christenings, duels, burials, swindlings, diplomatic affairs – everything is a pretext for a good dinner.
– Jean Anouilh, French playwright

The next morning we took off for Versailles, but not before having chocolat chaud and croissants at Bigot Pâtisserie & Chocolatier, at the corner of Place Michel Debré and Rue Nationale, Amboise.

We said au revoir to Amboise, the Loire Valley, and La Tartue, our sweet home here. After chocolat chaud and croissants, our breakfast of choice in France, at Bigot Pâtisserie & Chocolatier, a family-run establishment for more than 100 years, we headed out. Our next stop was Versailles, a two-hour drive away. We ended our AirBnB accommodations and landed at the Hôtel le Cheval Rouge, which was built in 1676 as Louis XIV’s stables. The hotel was not that far away from the château. It was not the most appealing accommodation, but it had history, so we appreciated that.

Hôtel le Cheval Rouge, Versailles.

Once we checked in and dropped off our luggage after lunch, we footed it to Château de Versailles, about a 10-minute walk to the entrance. To say it was overrun with tourists and tourist groups is an understatement. We would have fared better to come at the opening. If we had come later in the afternoon, we would have had our visit cut short even more, as the château and gardens were going to close early, at 5:30pm, for a light show.

Approaching Château de Versailles.

At the gates of Château de Versailles. I had to be just as aggressive as the people around me to get our photo in!

Château de Versailles.

Detail of statue the outside of Château de Versailles.

The clock on the building of Château de Versailles.

Another detail of building, Château de Versailles.

Cool royal courtyard at the entrance of Château de Versailles.

Statue detail of outside of Château de Versailles.

Detail of statue, Château de Versailles.

We were body-to-body as we went from one room to the next. It was difficult to really appreciate what we were seeing with so many tourists in the rooms. We did the best that we could. I enjoyed the paintings on the ceilings – at least there I didn’t have to have tourists in my photos!

Tourists taking pictures on their smart phones, Versailles.

Versailles was home to French monarchs and was the center of culture in Europe for some hundred years. Louis XIV (1638-1715) turned his father’s hunting lodge into the grand palace that is Versailles, using the public treasury to fund his venture. Louis XIV gave himself the name Sun King because he “gave life and warmth to all he touched.” He was also compared to Apollo, the Greek god of the sun, with Versailles being the personal temple of Apollo. That’s why there are numerous statues and symbols of Apollo, the sun, and Louis XIV himself throughout Versailles. He was the absolute monarch for 72 years. His great-grandson, Louis XV, reigned from 1715-1774. Towards the end of his rule, France was faltering – its power abroad was weakening and civil unrest was brewing. When Louis XVI came into power in 1774, he married Marie-Antoinette, from an Austrian royal family, and they retreated to an idyllic existence in Versailles. Meanwhile, the natives were getting restless. The French Revolution of 1789, of course, turned everything upside-down. In 1837, King Louis-Philippe opened the palace as a museum.

Hall near the entrance of Château de Versailles, David’s take without tourists.

Hall near the entrance of Château de Versailles, my take without tourists.

Likely one of the apartments of the daughters of Louis XV, Château de Versailles.

Likely a room from the apartments of the daughters of Louis XV, Château de Versailles.

Elaborately decorated doors and ceiling paintings everywhere, Château de Versailles.

Detail of ceiling painting, Château de Versailles.

Selfie with David, Château de Versailles.

Same big room. I wish I remembered what room this is, but I’ll take a guess that this is a either a state apartment or one of Louis XIV rooms, Château de Versailles.

Another bedroom in the apartments of the daughters of Louis XV, Château de Versailles.

We walked through many rooms either very slowly because we were hampered by the crowd in front of us, or quickly to avoid said crowds. So, we didn’t the backstory to what we were seeing. Of course, we knew about the Hall of Mirrors. At the time, mirrors were a luxury, so the sheer quantity of mirrors, along with their size, made for a breathtaking sight. Nearly 250 feet long, the hall boasts 17 arched mirrors on the interior wall and 17 windows that offer an expansive view of the Gardens. In modern times, June 28, 1919, the Hall of Mirrors served as the place where Germany and the Allies signed the Treaty of Versailles, which ended WWI.

Hall of MIrrors, Château de Versailles.

Painting from the corner ceiling, Château de Versailles.

Another ceiling painting, Château de Versailles.

The library in one of the apartments, Château de Versailles.

Another ceiling painting, Château de Versailles.

The Gallery of Battles, which depicts paintings of French military victories, Château de Versailles.

Painting depicting George Washington and Lafayette defeating the British at the Battle of Yorktown, The Gallery of Battles, Château de Versailles.

Towards the end of the tour of Château de Versailles.

The gardens were spectacular. We walked past the big fountain and all the way down to the Petit Canal, or Grand Canal, where once French royalty glided by in imported Venetian gondolas. No gondolas here now. We would have rowed a boat on the canal, but the rental shop was closing early, too, for the light show. For that reason, I’m glad we didn’t come later, though at the expense of being elbow-to-elbow with tourists. We didn’t explore all of the gardens, which I regretted because I could see down the trails here and there that beauty awaited just around the corner. You could spend an entire day just in the gardens, which was my favorite part of what I saw of Versailles. We also didn’t see Trianon Palaces and Domaine de Marie-Antoinette. If we ever come back – David would likely say no – I’d come first thing in the morning and spend the afternoon exploring the gardens.

Statue outside of Château de Versailles.

Methinks this statue outside of Château de Versailles is Poseidon.

From the steps at the top of the gardens, you can see all the way to the Grand Canal, Versailles Gardens.

Latona’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

Close-up view of Latona’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

Detail of Latona’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

Family portrait with Château de Versailles and dramatic skies in the background.

Stately marble statues lining the groves, Versailles Gardens.

Statue in Versailles Gardens.

Same statue, looking skyward, where he is pointing to sunlight, a break in the clouds, Versailles Gardens.

A grove of beautiful trees, Versailles Gardens.

Detail of a statue with mask, Versailles Gardens.

Apollo’s Fountain with reflection of the sky, Versailles Gardens.

The astonishing Apollo’s Fountain, a close-up, Versailles Gardens.

David takes a picture of me taking a picture of Isabella and Jacob, Apollo’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

David’s photo of Jacob and Isabella at Apollo’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

And my photograph of Jacob and Isabella at Apollo’s Fountain, Versailles Gardens.

While we were waiting in line to purchase a souvenir for Isabella’s friend, Jacob came from another part of the museum shop and said he saw a girl who looked like an exchange student we had housed three years ago for three weeks in the summer. We told him it was probably someone who looked like Violette. Another clerk came to the register to help out the lone clerk. She called us up since we were next in line. As she rang us up, she said, “Aren’t you the family who I stayed with in San Francisco three years ago?” How bizarre to have stumbled upon her at this particular time and place! It was also awkward, as we did not bond with her; otherwise, we would have kept in touch and let her know that we were visiting her homeland. We chatted for a few minutes and then we were on our way out of Versailles.

My panorama of Versailles.

We dined at Le Bouchon du Marche, near our hotel. The chalkboard menu was all in French. Our server was quite accommodating, trying to explain the various menu items. She was great and we had a really nice meal in Versailles. We were only staying one night in Versailles, and we were gearing up for our last full day in France, and our last night in our hotel.

Window of Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

The other window of Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

My almond salmon dish, Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

A good bottle of red, Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

Father and son enjoying dinner outdoors, Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

Isabella’s chocolate torte drowning in creme, Le Bouchon du Marche, Versailles.

David’s dessert – berry ice cream in warm cherry sauce! Le Bouchon du Marche.

We ate breakfast at a nearby pâtisserie on our way out of Versailles. One more look at the religieuse!

Family vacation in France: Day 14 in Amboise

Give me books, French wine, fruit, fine weather and a little music played out of doors by somebody I do not know.
– John Keats, English Romantic poet

We had scheduled three days in Amboise, the Loire Valley. It was our third day, and we were game for two more châteaux. David pointed out in retrospect that we should have visited just three châteaux and leisurely examined all of the grounds. I wish that, too, but sometimes on your first trip to any new country, any new place, is a splash, so to speak. You go in and see everything that you can, with the understanding that you will return. At least that’s what I’m hoping!

Château de Chambord.

Château de Chambord
Château de Chambord is a beast of a château – allegedly six times the size of the average Loire castle! The entrance is from the back, but as you walk around the building, you begin to appreciate the scale of this massive château, which boasts 440 rooms and a fireplace for every day of the year, according to Rick Steves. Its history is equally expansive and fascinating. In 1515, François I was enthroned and became king of France. He began construction of Château de Chambord in 1519, the same year that his dear friend, Leonardo da Vinci, died in the Loire Valley. The château was still under construction when François I died in 1547, but his son, Henri II, carried on the construction as he ascended to the throne. The work was suspended for some 70 years until Gaston, Duke of Orléans was granted possession of Chambord. After the duke died, Chambord returned to the crown, Louis XIV. In 1725 the former king of Poland, Stanislas Leszczynski moved into Chambord. After Leszczynski moves out in 1733, Chambord is granted to Maurice, Count of Saxony, by King Louis XV. Maurice died in the château in 1750, and in 1781, the park and the château are entrusted to the royal stud farms. During the French Revolution, in 1792, the furniture was auctioned off. Two more dignitaries would be granted Chamboard, but in 1840, the château became the first on the list of Monuments historiques de France to be registered.

Another view of Château de Chambord.

Outside spiral staircase, Château de Chambord.

Detail of a a tower from the rooftop, Château de Chambord.

Close-up of the rooftop, Château de Chambord.

Enjoying the rooftop views of Château de Chambord.

Batman view of a tower, Château de Chambord.

Dizzy yet? Tower, Château de Chambord.

More views of the rooftop, Château de Chambord.

Last exterior shot of Château de Chambord.

Unbeknownst to us, Château de Chambord is surrounded by Europe’s largest enclosed park, a game preserve with a 20-mile-long wall and wild deer and boar. Originally a hunting lodge, Chambord became somewhat of a monument to the royal sport. The château is laid out in the shape of a Greek cross – four towers and wings surrounded by stables – and has four floors with soaring ceilings. The architecture of the château is modeled after an Italian church. The ground floor hosts reception rooms, the first floor royal apartments, the second floor temporary exhibits of contemporary artists and a hunting museum, and the rooftop boasts a terrace with fantastic “far as the eye can see” views of the gardens and beyond.

From the rooftop, you can see forever, at least the manicured gardens, Château de Chambord.

Detail of the garden at Château de Chambord. You can see how big it is in scale to the people walking below.

On the far left of the gardens is the entrance, shops, a hotel, restaurants, and a pond, Château de Chambord.

Isabella at the stables with a horse friend, Château de Chambord.

The main attraction of Château de Chambord is its double-helix staircase. This grand spiral staircase sits in the middle of the structure and consists in two separate flights of stairs, twin helices proceeding upwards around a hollow newel post. “If two persons choose to use different flights, they will espy each other through numerous loopholes as they ascend – without ever meeting.” Hmmm. I didn’t notice that while going up and down the staircase. While not a cozy place – indeed, many inhabitants found it too big and too cold – there’s a stateliness about Chambord. I can’t imagine spending a winter there, but I bet it was beautiful throughout the seasons.

The grand staircase in Château de Chambord.

David looking down at me from the stairway, Château de Chambord.

Going up the grand staircase, Château de Chambord.

Interior detail in the massive stone wall, Château de Chambord.

Detail of a column, Château de Chambord.

We lunched at one of the outdoor cafés, amusing ourselves with a group of Chinese women tourists, who brought their own portable reflectors, for professional-grade photographs. One woman was dressed in a bright, crowd-stopping red flared dress and wide-brimmed hat. She posed the most, no surprise. But luckily, again, we didn’t encounter elbow-to-elbow tourists at the châteaux. After we ate our artfully prepared lunch, we headed out for the last château in the Loire Valley.

Tourists taking pictures at Château de Chambord.

Curry chicken and a glass of rosé at an outdoor café, Château de Chambord.

David’s crème brûlée at Château de Chambord.

Berry custard at Château de Chambord.

Château de Cheverny
After the massive, thick, and brutish Château de Chambord, we found Château de Cheverny to be more refined and stately. This hunting château was built and furnished in a 30-year span, from 1604 to 1634, which is a blink of an eye compared to the construction phases of the previous châteaux that we visited. Château de Cheverny has been in the same family – the Hurault family – since the beginning. It was opened to the public in 1922. The viscount and his family actually still live here, on the third floor. Interestingly, Château de Cheverny survived the French Revolution – at the time, the count’s relatives were well liked by all, including the village farmers, even up to today.

The stately Château de Cheverny.

The rooms were fully furnished. There was an interesting Lego exhibit at the Château de Cheverny. Every room had a Lego character or structure. We weren’t privy to what was going on or what each exhibit meant, but we enjoyed seeing these Lego structures/characters, some of which are contemporary, in this historical setting.

Dinner is served in the elaborately decorated dining room, Château de Cheverny.

See the Lego portrait to the left and some Lego statues on the table, Château de Cheverny.

A knight’s armor and weaponry, Château de Cheverny.

The chapel at Château de Cheverny includes a Lego portrait of The Last Supper.

One of the family apartments, Château de Cheverny.

A child’s bedroom, Château de Cheverny.

What is a Lego Scooby Doo dog and other Lego dogs doing in this child’s room in the Château de Cheverny? We never found out.

Château de Cheverny bedroom with a wedding dress on a mannequin and veil over a chair. But what is the significance of the detective at the window and the basset hound?

A tapestry hangs in the Arms Room with weapons, a sedan chair, and a snare drum from the count of Chambord, Château de Cheverny.

We checked out the kitchen garden, which has a hanging orchid garden, which misted the flowers at timed intervals. We walked through the apprentices’ garden, which stands between the Château de Cheverny and the Orangery. The garden reflects a combination of French classical geometry and formal flowerbeds and English-style perspective with its views of the ground. We had ice cream at the Orangery, which is at the end of the walkway. The 18th century orangery was originally used to shelter the orange trees in the wintertime. The first orange trees in France were said to have been brought from Spain to Queen Anne de Bretagne for her gardens in Blois. During WWII, it is said that the Orangery sheltered numerous French national property, including the Mona Lisa! Today, it’s a charming café.

This massive Sequoia Géant was planted here near the dog kennels on the grounds of Château de Chevern in 1870!

Statue and rooftop of Château de Cheverny.

Pool behind the Château de Cheverny.

The arbor leading to the Orangery, Château de Cheverny.

The 18th-century orangery once protected the Mona Lisa during WWII, Château de Cheverny.

A pom-pom fuschia dahlia, in the kitchen garden, Château de Cheverny.

Hanging orchids getting misted under an arbor, the kitchen garden, Château de Cheverny.

When you are at Château de Cheverny, you can hear barking and howling. The kennels near the trophy room and kitchen garden house some hundred French hounds, which have a V for Vibraye shorn into the right flank of each hound. Cheverny remains an important hunting venue, much to Isabella’s dismay. We missed the labyrinth maze, the Jardin de Tulipes (tulip garden), and the canal with electric boats. We also didn’t see the Expo Tintin Exhibit. I’m familiar with Tintin but not intimately; Château de Cheverny was prominently featured in one of the Tintin movies.

This hound was friendly, at the dog kennel, Château de Cheverny.

Super hot hound takes a splash in the watering hole, dog kennel, Château de Cheverny.

By the end of the day, we were effectively and collectively château’d out. We decided that on our last night we must dine out in Amboise. On the recommendation of our host and Rick Steves, we made a reservation for La Fourchette (9 Rue Malebranche), on a quiet, dead-end street near Rue Nationale. It was a short walk from our Amboise house. This tiny, unassuming family diner is deceptively simple in its décor and cuisine. But the food is incredibly flavorful. The restaurant offers only two options for entrées and plat at fantastic prices. We ate outside and witnessed many disappointed people who didn’t have reservations being turned away. They likely had three serving times, and after that, the restaurant is done for the evening. We definitely recommend eating here if you find yourself in Amboise. We’re so glad we ate here for our last meal in Amboise, and in the Loire Valley.

La Fourchette, near Rue Nationale at 9 Rue Malebranche, Amboise.

Our tartare starter was delicious, La Fourchette, Amboise.

I don’t remember what I ordered, but it was good, La Fourchette, Amboise.

Anticipating dessert after a tasty dinner at La Fourchette, Amboise.

Chocolate cake in a pool of mint, La Fourchette, Amboise.

My dessert, a tart of sorts, La Fourchette, Amboise.

This house on our way down from our Amboise house to the Loire River has a placard that proclaims when it was built – 1638!

Family vacation in France: Day 13 in Amboise

History is written by the survivors. And I am surely that.
 – Queen Catherine de’ Medici, Italian noblewoman, queen of France from 1547 until 1559, by marriage to King Henri II

On the drive from Mont St-Michel to Amboise, we showed Isabella and Jacob pictures of the châteaux of the East side of the Loire Valley and asked them to pick their top two. Jacob picked Amboise and Chambord, while Isabella selected Chenonceau and Cheverny. When we decamped in Amboise, we saw Château Amboise, down the street from our AirBnB house. Today, based on proximity, we paired up Chenonceau and Chambord, which was about an hour’s drive through the leisurely Loire Valley countryside.

But first, before we head out, breakfast of chocolat chaud and croissant in Amboise.

Yummy pastries in Amboise.

I can’t promise you that this is the last photo of bales of hay, but it was the last time David acquiesced to my request to “pull the car over so we can take pictures of bales of hay.”

Château de Chenonceau
Château de Chenonceau is a 16th-century Renaissance palace that spans the Cher River – and one of the most-visited châteaux in all of France. We got there mid-morning, after traversing the countryside and stopping for more bales of hay photo opps, and the tourist situation was not bad at all. There were a few buses and tour groups, but nothing like the other big monuments in Paris. We counted ourselves lucky. Like Château d’Amboise, Château de Chenonceau is a grand castle, but Château de Chenonceau took my breath away.

There’s a lovely tree-lined walkway leading up to Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Two reclining lions greet you at the entrance of Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

The château and mill, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

I was taken by the stories of the past owners and occupants of Château de Chenonceau. Thomas Bohier and his wife Katherine Briçonnet tore down the fortified castle and mill belong to the Marques family who owned it before. The Marques tower was all that was left, and Bohier restored it to the current Renaissance style of the 16th century. The château is built on the piers of the old fortified mill. The Château has been nicknamed “the château of the ladies,” as it was home to many notable women, including the most famous – Catherine de’ Medici, who married King Henri II. In 1547, King Henri II donated Chenonceau to his lady, or mistress, Diane de Poiters, who was known for her beauty, intelligence, and business acumen. Diane, who was a French noblewoman and courtier at the courts of King Henri II and his son, King Frances I, or François I, wielded enormous power in her position. She created spectacular and modern – at the time – gardens. After Henri II’s death, however, Catherine kicked out Diane, banishing her to Château de Chaumont-Sur-Loire, which we visited in the afternoon. Such banishment couldn’t have been all that bad if you think about what she ended up with – it’s not the Château de Chenonceau but it’s still a castle. At any rate, Diane lived an interesting life. Simonne Menier, of the Menier chocolate factory family, was the “last” lady of Château de Chenonceau and matron at the time of WWI. She was in charge of the hospital installed at the château’s two galleries and equipped it at her family’s expnse. More than 2,000 wounded were treated here up until 1918. Simonne also was part of the French Resistance during WWII. How appropriate that she be the last lady of Château de Chenonceau.

You can rent a boat and row beneath the arches of Château de Chenonceau on the river Cher.

A beautiful, unobstructed view of Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

The other side of Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Back to the actual château: The rooms are sumptuously decorated with paintings, tapestries, elaborate ceilings, lush wallpaper, and grand furniture. The downstairs kitchens are a chef’s dream, which includes a pantry with fireplace and bread oven, dining room for employees, butchery with hooks to hang game and blocks for chopping, and lots of polished copper pans.

The Chapel, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

My favorite room – the Gallery. It was once Diane de Poitier’s bridge, but in 1576, Catherine de’ Medici had Jean Bullant build a gallery upon Diane’s bridge, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Part of the amazing kitchens! This is the dining room where the employees ate, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Part of the amazing kitchens, this room shows just some of the copperware on the wall, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

I’m fascinated by beds in these châteaux. This room is in memory of Gabrielle d’Estrées, the favorite and great love of King Henri IV, and mother to his legitimate son Cesar of Vendôme, Château de Chenonceau.

Catherine de’ Medici’s bedroom leads to two small apartments, which form the exhibition rooms. This exhibition room presents a magnificent ceiling decorated with a canvas painting, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

The Five Queens’ Bedroom, a name given to this bedroom in memory of Catherine de’ Medici’s two daughters and three daughters-in-law. The walls are decorated with a suite of 16th-century Flanders tapestries. The fireplace is Renaissance, the 16th-century coffer ceiling comes from the apartments of Louise of Lorraine and bears the coats of arms of the five Queens, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

A beautiful carved cabinet cornered by wall-length tapestries, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

The staircase bears sculpted leaves representing the Old Testament. It is notable for being one of the first straight staircase to be built in France based on the Italian model, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

A tapestry displayed in the new Medici Gallery, which unveils a previously unseen collection of paintings, tapestries, furniture, and pieces of art, Château de Chenonceau, Chenondeaux, France.

The grounds are so massive, we didn’t get to everything on the property. We appreciated Diane’s Garden and Catherine’s Garden. While we did make our way to the center of the Italian maze, created with 2,000 yews, we didn’t get to the carriage gallery, the 16th-century farm, the Orangery (tea room), and the vegetable and flower garden, which supplies the beautiful arrangements that adorned many of the rooms in the château.

Jacob and Isabella contemplating Catherine’s Garden, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Catherine’s Garden: Looking out over the water and the park, its paths offer magnificent views of the château’s west facade. Its design centers around five lawns, grouped around a circular pond and dotted with rounded box hedges, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Another view of Catherine’s Garden, which is “bordered by a low wall, lined with pleached ‘Clair Matin’ roses, that overhangs the moat. Standard roses and borders of lavender, pruned low and round, trace out a harmonious design,” Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

On the other side is Diane’s Garden. “Two perpendicular and two diagonal paths border eight large, lawned triangles decorated with delicate scrolls of santolina,” Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Diane’s Garden: “The raised terraces taht protect the garden when water levels rise in the river Char are decorated with urns, and offer a chance to discover the shrubs, yew trees, spindle trees, box hedges, and viburnum tinus arranged around the beds,” Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Diane’s Garden: “In the summer, more than a hundred hibiscus syriacus flower here. Between these flowering shrubs, flowerbeds underline this garden’s strict geometry,” Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Diane’s Garden: “In Autumn, pansies alternate with daisies and flower throughout Winter. In Spring, petunias, tobacco plants, dwarf dahlias, verbena, and begonias are planted out and bide their time until the next Autumn. All around the garden, the walls that support the terraces are clad with ‘iceberg’ climbing roses,” Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Making our way through the maze. I can just see where I need to go, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Ah, we made it to the center, a raised gloriette, a small monument covered with flourishing willow, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Amazingly, 10 gardeners grow more than a hundred different varieties of flowers, which two full-time florists source for the interior floral decoration, and more than 400 rose bushes! I was so inspired by the floral arrangements; while David was taking photos of the rooms – the furniture and paintings and wall and ceiling decorations – I was mesmerized by the floral arrangements. I had so many photos that I had to severely curate my flower photos. What a heavenly position to secure as full-time florist for Château de Chenonceau!

The first of eight curated floral arrangement photos, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceux, France.

A close-up of another beautiful floral arrangement, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

A row of bouquets that matches the room it’s in, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Ethereal floral arrangement, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Close-up of another purple floral arrangement, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Floral arrangement, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Airy floral arrangement, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

This château was a family favorite in the Loire Valley; it was going to be difficult to top this place. After lunch at the restaurant on the grounds, we headed for our next château.

Beautiful woods near the maze, Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France.

Along the walkway back to the entrance and exit of Château de Chenonceau, Chenonceaux, France. We saw muskrats coexisting peacefully with the ducks in the pond.

Au revoir, Château de Chenonceau!

Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire
The Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire is tucked away in the quiet town of Chaumont. The grounds are quite expansive and require a bit of an uphill hike to reach it, but the effort is worth it and the view of the Loire River is spectacular. The château was founded around the year thousand by Odo I. Later, a Norman knight shored up its fortress, but he and his son, who had no heir, passed it on to his great-niece whose family by marriage, the d’Amboise family, retained the château for the next five centuries. In 1465, Louis XI had Chaumont burned to the ground to punish Pierre I d’Amboise over an aristocratic revolt against the king. Once pardoned, Pierre and his son – and later his uncle – began rebuilding the château. In 1550, Catherine de Medici bought the chateau, which was profitable from the toll on the Loire and numerous farming plots. She used Chaumont-sur-Loire as a hunting ground and stopping place when she traveled between Château d’Amboise and Blois. After Diane de Poitiers was given Château de Chaumont after surrendering Château de Chenonceau to Catherine de Medici, Diane continued with Chaumont’s construction – though she rarely stayed there – up until her death in 1566. The château’s current appearance is credited to de Poitiers’ hand in its restoration.

David said that Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire looks like a Disneyland castle. I keep think of Lord Farquaat from Shrek. Still, I think this is a beautiful château.

Another view of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire, with the green lawn and rows of lavender.

The courtyard of the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

A view of the Loire River from the top of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Another view of the Loire River from the viewing platform at the top of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Before you get to the château, this pathway is lined with adorable covered chairs that face the Loire River, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

The château survived many owners during the Age of Enlightenment and the Romantic Era. Another interesting, though tragic story: The last private owner, Marie-Charlotte-Constance Say, heir to the Say sugar refineries and princess by marriage to Henri-Amédée de Broglie, implemented many changes to the château, making it grand for receptions for many European and Eastern sovereigns. Through reckless speculation by the director of the Say sugar refineries, the de Broglie family lost a third of its fortunes. After Henri-Amédée’s death, his widow Marie-Charlotte-Constance mismanaged her remaining fortunes, which was further decimated by the Wall Street Crash of 1929. Despite marriage to another royal, who was 31 years her junior, Marie-Charlotte-Constance and her husband encountered numerous financial setbacks and were forced to divide up the Domaine de Chaumont. In 1937, the French State launched an expropriation procedure “in the public interest” and took possession of the property in 1938, including the tapestry collection and furniture that the State deemed historical. A national monument, the Domaine became regional in 2007.

King Henri I’s emblem, the porcupine, is seen throughout the château, particularly above fireplaces, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

The elaborately decorated and colorful Chapel, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Detail of stained-glass window coat of arms, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Beautiful carved column and spiral staircase, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Yes, that’s me taking a photo of the dining room, which boasts an incredible fireplace (in the background) by Antoine Margotin, Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Sugar sculpture under glass in one of the rooms of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Somebody’s bedroom! Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

In the Upper Galleries at the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire, a 2018 tribute to Jacques Truphémus called Paysages, highlights his works. Balthus regarded Truphémus as the greatest French painter.

Floral arrangement at the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

One more porcupine emblem at the Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

The expansive grounds include stables, a model farm, greenhouse, vegetable and children’s garden, gardeners court galleries, bee farm, among other structures and points of interest. The Domain of Chaumont-sur-Loire is the “foremost Centre of Art and Nature entirely devoted to the relationship between nature and culture, artistic creation and the impact of landscape, our heritage and contemporary art.” From late March to early November, contemporary art exhibitions and installations are set up in the château, Prés du Goualoup, farmyard, stables, and historic grounds. For the Domain de Chaumont-sur-Loire International Garden Festival, which runs from late April to early November, this year’s theme was Gardens of Thought. The garden festival is “a mecca of garden projects and landscape design” – installations by contemporary artists, photography exhibitions, and gardens of creation. Just walking the length of the gardens would require half a day. We loved exploring the gardens, finding one surprise or treasure after another. One can’t rush through the garden and fully appreciate the beauty of nature and art entwined and the inspiration of these artists. Well, we did rush through it, though we did appreciate the gardens. I would absolutely come back to Chaumont and spend a day here.

Reflecting pond, Domain of Chaumont-Sur-Loire International Garden Festival.

Lone maple tree and its reflection, Domain of Chaumont-sur-Loire International Garden Festival.

The grounds of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

Flowers of Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

My favorite garden photo of the Valley of Mist, International Garden Festival, Domain de Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire.

We had to rush through the gardens to get back to Amboise in time for Isabella’s horseback riding lesson late in the afternoon. A horseback ride was the request, but a riding lesson was just as appreciated by our horse-loving daughter. David, Jacob, and I were content to hang out and try to avoid the heat of the day while Isabella trotted around with Flo, her French horse.

Isabella and Flo, Amboise.

Exhausted from a very full and warm day, we got lazy and had another dinner at home, which I didn’t mind since our Amboise home was the most inviting abode we’ve had on our vacation.

A Little Free Library installation on a street in Amboise, France.

Behind our street is a wall of a stony hill and there are actually homes built into the stone in Amboise. Amazing.