Return to Chicago: ‘City of the Big Shoulders’

Come and show me another city with lifted head singing so proud to be alive and coarse and strong and singing…proud to be a Hog Butcher, Tool Maker, Stacker of Wheat, Player with Railroads and Freight Handler to the Nation.
– Carl Sandberg, American writer, poet, and editor

When I was still packing at 11pm on a Friday night, knowing that I had to get up at 3am the next morning to leave the house at 4am, I told myself that yes, it was worth leaving that early for my flight from Oakland International to Chicago. I was going to be working Sunday through Wednesday for my company’s annual conference, and the only day I had to explore the Windy City was Saturday afternoon. I slept on my flight, and by the time I was in the cab heading into the heart of Chicago, I knew I had made the right decision.

On my way to dinner my first evening in Chicago - a beautiful cityscape sunset on the Chicago River.

On my way to dinner to join my colleagues at the Stout on my first evening in Chicago – a beautiful cityscape sunset on the Chicago River.

If you're not going to get a room at the W City Center with a real view, you might as well have a view of fantastic architecture, the Marriott on N. Adams.

If you’re not going to get a room with a real view at the W City Center, you might as well have a view of fantastic architecture, in this instance the Marriott on N. Adams.

Armed with Google map on my iPhone, I found the Blue Line (actually by asking locals since I’m useless with north-south-east-west directions), got myself in the right direction, and was reunited with my favorite neighborhood of vintage goods – Wicker Park. For those keeping notes, that would be heading to Forest Park and getting off at Damen. I immediately found my way to Eskell (1509 N. Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago, 60622, 773.486.0830), where I first discovered Laura Lombardi’s industrial-vibe jewelry years earlier. Unfortunately, Eskell was out of stock of her jewelry, but they carry a wonderful collection of their own label earrings, necklaces, and bracelets. Better still, their label is reasonably priced. Surprisingly, the first thing that caught my eye was their selection of sunglasses. I tried on a pair that was part Western, part Hollywood, and it seemed destined to be worn by me, walking out of the store and into the warm late afternoon – with a very spring temperature in the upper 60s.

Eskell shop dog lounging in the same spot when I was here last - two years ago.

Eskell shop dog Goose lounging in the same spot when I was last here – two years ago.

It was a sunny spring afternoon in the Windy City - so shopping for sunglasses was appropriate.

It was a sunny spring afternoon in the Windy City – so shopping for sunglasses was appropriate.

I'll take these cool silver-tipped shades....

I’ll take these cool silver-tipped shades….

Eclectic shop design - keys and horns.

Eclectic shop design – vintage photographs, keys, and horns.

Eskell label delicate drop earrings with a sterling silver shell ring I got at Eskell on my last visit.

Eskell label delicate drop earrings with a sterling silver shell ring I got at Eskell on my last visit.

Eskell features its own inexpensive line of edgy jewelry.

Eskell features its own inexpensive line of edgy jewelry.

Vibes of Cleopatra in these geometric drop earrings.

Vibes of Cleopatra in these geometric drop earrings.

Vintage brass earrings designed by Eskell.

Vintage brass earrings designed by Eskell.

I didn’t have to go far to hit Vintage Underground (1507 N. Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago, 60622, 773.384.7880) and see if owner Carlos and his assistants, Ada and Ellen, were there that Saturday. Indeed, they were! I wasn’t sure if they would remember me, but with a little prodding and immediate recognition from Ellen, they did all remember. I told Carlos that my blog post about his borrowed paraphrased advice: “Plant a tree, write a book” was the most viewed blog post for me ever (not that I have legions of people following me or discovering my blog, but that blog post still reigns supreme). The full quote is “Plant a tree, have a child, write a book.” Since my last visit to the shop in December 2013, I learned that the original  Vintage Underground, which was housed in the basement of a building several blocks away, consolidated with its other shop on N. Milwaukee Avenue, which is now where you’ll find heaps upon heaps of vintage treasures.

Next door neighbor: Vintage Underground!

Next door neighbor to Eskell: Vintage Underground!

Dazzling vintage rhinestone jewelry.

Dazzling vintage rhinestone jewelry.

More vintage bling. The fun part was trying on the oversized ball earrings.

More vintage bling. The fun part was trying on the oversized ball earrings from the 1970s on the left of the top shelf.

As you can see, combining inventory of two locations results in a shop overflowing, dripping with treasures. I could have spent the rest of the day poring over the jewelry in the glass cabinets. I checked out the vintage rhinestone and crystal necklaces and earrings. I tried on the statement sterling silver necklaces. As Carlos rang up my purchase of a 1970s sterling silver necklace made in Mexico, I told him with a heavy heart that my parent company is no longer going to have its annual conference in Chicago. He mourned with me, but responded with a smile, “So you’ll have to come here just for pleasure.” Indeed.

Sterling silver necklace from Mexico. Better left unpolished.

Sterling silver necklace from Mexico. Advice from Ada: Better left unpolished for character.

The crew at Vintage Underground - Carlos and X and X.

The fabulous crew at Vintage Underground – from left to right, Ellen, Carlos, and Ada. This photo belongs in a fashion mag.

Wicker Park - retail shops take over old buildings, but you can still appreciate the architecture.

Wicker Park – retail shops take over old buildings, but you can still appreciate the architecture.

I had a lot of fun moderating a diverse panel of experts on the topic of population health management for one of our clients at their booth in the cavernous exhibit hall in the equally cavernous McCormack Place.

On Monday and Tuesday afternoon, I had a lot of fun moderating a diverse panel of experts on the topic of population health management for one of our clients at their booth in the cavernous exhibit hall in the equally cavernous McCormack Place. Give a Filipino a microphone and don’t be surprised if he or she breaks out in song.

I had a great, though grueling, conference, reuniting with my colleagues and getting to know our clients during dinners and events. But what I really enjoyed was walking around Chicago. Everywhere I turned, I found architectural gems. I think that is what I love the most about this city – its unique and abundant architecture and also the Chicago River.

Every block you turn, you get great architecture.

Every block you turn, you get great architecture.

Carl Sandburg called Chicago "City of the Big Shoulders" in his poem "Chicago."

Carl Sandburg called Chicago “City of the Big Shoulders” in his poem “Chicago.”

My "frolleague" Eric Wicklund and I walked from our Maggiano's dinner to the Magnificent Mile, marveling at the glowing cityscape and the mild spring evening.

My “frolleague” Eric Wicklund and I walked from our Maggiano’s dinner to the Magnificent Mile, marveling at the glowing cityscape and thoroughly enjoying the mild spring evening.

I don’t know when I’ll return to Chicago, but as it is one of my favorite cities, I know it won’t be too long a time in between. Only next time, I’ll be on vacation and spending my days and evenings soaking in all the Windy City has to offer.

I've been to the top of Willis Tower, which was two blocks from my hotel, but for our client dinner my last evening in Chicago, we were treated to dinner at the Metropolitan Club on the 67th Floor.

I’ve been to the top of Willis Tower, which was two blocks from my hotel, but for our client dinner my last evening in Chicago, we were treated to dinner at the Metropolitan Club on the 67th Floor, with an amazing top-of-the-world kind of view.

Carl Sandburg: "Come and show me another city with lifted head singing so proud to be alive and coarse and strong and cunning."

Surreal, mesmerizing view of skyscrapers – like toy building blocks crowded together.

Looking down on the Chicago Board of Trade Building with the statue of Ceres on top...and a reflection of the Metropolitan Club tables.

Night falls: Looking down on the Chicago Board of Trade Building with the statue of Ceres on top…and a reflection of the Metropolitan Club tables.

Goodnight, Chicago.

Goodnight, Chicago, from the Metropolitan Club. Last words from Carl Sandburg: “By night the skyscraper looms in the smoke and the stars and has a soul.”

An Evening with Kazuo Ishiguro: remembering and forgetting

An artist’s concern is to capture beauty wherever he finds it.
 – Kazuo Ishiguro, British novelist of Japanese origin, from An Artist of the Floating World

Being introduced at the First Congregational Church of Berkeley.

Being introduced at the First Congregational Church of Berkeley.

The last time I saw the novelist Kazuo Ishiguro at a reading was 10 years ago at the now-defunct bookstore, A Clean Well-Lighted Place for Books in San Francisco, when his then-latest novel, Never Let Me Go, came out. I remembered being stunned that he had advocated against setting novels in a specific time and place. The Remains of the Day, When We Were Orphans, A Pale View of the Hills, An Artist of the Floating World – these novels were set in a specific time and place and they captured that time and place so exquisitely. He advocated for universality because that allowed for inclusivity – more readers to be drawn in interest wise and thus a greater opportunity for the writer to touch a greater number of readers. I wasn’t convinced because I thought then and still think today that themes of humanity can come through successfully from a particular person, time, and place, but any time a great novelist speaks, I deeply consider what he or she says.

Ishiguro was speaking in defense of Never Let Me Go, his science fiction-genre novel, a departure from his earlier works. I confess that I tried to read Never Let Me Go two different times when it first came out, and I just couldn’t get into it. Interestingly, Ishiguro told us that he wrote the novel twice in the 1990s. He wanted to write about characters having to face a limited lifestyle in futuristic England. He had two pieces of the puzzle but needed a “situation to make it work.” “Out of desperation, I wanted to get this thing to work, to get my flying machine to fly,” he told us. “Only when it’s flying do I see so many rich things out there when you’re trying to get your writing to work. There are so many ways to tell a story.” Indeed, there are so many ways to tell a story. There are so many choices a writer makes – what to tell, what to leave out, which are traits of Ishiguro’s first-person narrators that I admire so deeply. Ishiguro deftly shows us flawed protagonists who struggle with what to tell us and what to leave buried.

Discussing his new novel.

Discussing his new novel in this beautiful venue.

The Buried Giant
Interestingly, his latest novel The Buried Giant is set at a time in Britain long after the Romans withdrew from the country in the fifth century. But the theme of his previous novels is inherent in The Buried Giant. He told the capacity crowd that this novel is about forgetting and remembering and exploring these questions: When is it time really to face up to the past? When is it better to remember, when is it better to forget – both as an individual and as a nation? When Ishiguro was working through the theme of remembering the past from a nation perspective, he thought of the potential settings – science fiction, France after WWII, and apartheid South Africa. But he set it in Britain during the country’s “blank history” of ethnic cleansing. “That appealed to me to stand metaphorically for the uneasy peace between two factions,” he explained.

And he took on the genre of a fable – mythic but grounded in the physical. He said he “could do something special” with ogres, wolves, and bears as supernatural characters. Ishiguro confessed to not knowing Arthurian times very well, but he is well-versed in Japanese folk tales, is obsessed with Homer’s The Iliad and The Odyssey, and has a soft spot for Sherlock Holmes (as a child) and western movies. The samurai comes to a town that has a demon problem. The aging, lonely gunslinger and his horse can’t accept that they’re past their prime.

Talking about his close connection to Berkeley.

Talking about his close connection to Berkeley with novelist Michael David Lukas.

The Buried Giant is also about two people growing old together and wrestling with memory and forgetfulness, against the backdrop of a nation trying to forget what one faction has done to another within its borders. As for the love story theme, Ishiguro was exploring what happens to a couple’s love for one another if and when they lose their shared memories. “There’s a real need on our part to see everything good and bad, to withstand everything,” he said, when two people share their lives.

Reading the first three pages of The Buried Giant.

Reading the first three pages of The Buried Giant.

Berkeley roots, singer/songwriter
Berkeley holds a special place for Ishiguro because after his schooling, at age 29, he came to America and hitchhiked along the west coast in the 1970s. He was a singer/songwriter at the time and landed in San Francisco – specifically Berkeley – with his guitar and his rucksack because that’s where his musical heroes hailed from and it was also the “center” of the American counter-culture. He revealed that he had slept in the hillsides and worked at a baby food factory for six months.

The turning point in his life came when his guitar was stolen in San Francisco. He admitted that the record company rejections also played a hand in his decision to switch from being a singer/songwriter to a novelist. He skipped the “early bad stages” a writer endures because his songs were full of the adolescent angst and experimental purple prose, which often emerge in the works of first-time writers. Being a singer/songwriter aided him as a writer in other ways. “Songs have so few words,” and the words are “below the surface,” according to Ishiguro. He added, “The transaction is very first-person intimate, confessional. It’s the kind of atmosphere created in first-person narratives.” Ah, that makes sense, given how Ishiguro approaches his novels!

Ishiguro was very gracious while signing his books.

Ishiguro was very gracious while signing his books.

Representing humanity
Following the Q&A format with novelist Michael David Lukas, Ishiguro responded to a young woman’s revelation that in her high school world literature course he “represented” Asia. Of course, everyone laughed, including Ishiguro. He admitted that early in his career he couldn’t help but think of himself as representing Japan to British and felt that his job was “explaining the mysterious Japanese mind to the western world.” Although he only spent the first five years of his life in Japan, at a certain point he made a “conscious decision to be a Japanese writer.” But he got very frustrated trying to write about “human questions, stuff that we all share, universal themes” within the narrow framework of “representing Japan” So when he wrote his third novel, The Remains of the Day, it was a turning point in his life. “I don’t want to represent Asia. I just want to be a novelist not a cultural correspondent,” he said at the time and still is his strong belief today.

Ishiguro was very gracious while signing his books.

A Ziploc bag full of pens – he’ll need them with the long line of admirers who were clutching their copy of The Buried Giant and wrapping around the inside of the church.

Ishiguro responded to questions posed by audience members who had read The Buried Giant and wanted him to comment on what he called its “picaresque providential ending.” He said he is trying to leave the reader with a certain emotion but no practical suggestions on how to solve anything. He concluded, “My main ambition is simply to share emotions. It’s not a bad thing. We need fiction. We need music. So people can share emotions with one another. It’s not a huge thing, but I think it is, ultimately.” Indeed, after a wonderful evening of him sharing his backstory and his new novel, I can’t wait to read The Buried Giant.

Me and Kazuo!

Me and Kazuo!